Scotchbrite will clean that surface pretty well also. Auto parts store in paint section.

 

I've never torqued any belly pan bolts just tighten until real snug but always did it in the proper sequence. If torquing is a major concern, you can rent a inch pound torque wrench at any AZ.

 

Just finished my truck and it took me about 10 hours. I did buy a torque wrench from Harbor Freight for $15.00 that does inch pounds.

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-qua...ench-2696.html

 

Yeah thats what I was thinking...Autozone only has em that start off@20 inch lbs just like the harborfreight one.So youd be skipping a step if you did it by spec.Ill figure it out.Just had my kid yesterday si Ill be tackling my pan next week.

 

Finally got my intake clean yesterday, and the last broken bolt out! Few questions about my intake though, I noticed some pitting in the intake. Will this pose a problem or will the gasket+rtv do the trick or am I screwed? Also does this look clean enough for me to use?
(You should be able to click to make view bigger)





Again, sorry for all the questions on this I am just trying to get it done right the first time, and I am sure I will have many more questions before I finish it.

 

Congrats! Buckle up! Gonna be a bump ride...

 

Pitting around coolant ports is fairly standard, and can be dealt with by the RTV.

I would buff 'em a bit more, but, I am picky.... (paranoid?)

 

Well Northern Tool only has brass coated steel brushes so I got paranoid when i saw a few specks of aluminum that I would start taking aluminum off if I continued. ScotchBrite here I come!

 

Hopefully you are reading instructions from either one of the free FSM downloads in the FAQ/DIY section or a Haynes (and not just relying on info you get in your threads here). Because if you are reading one of the manuals , you will see that both say to put a small amount of rtv on both sides of the intake gaskets around the coolant ports only.

 

Thanks we got a 1 yr old&the new one no time for nothing