uh oh...318 cracked block
I found another block today, it's out of a 99 2500 van with 99k miles. I spent most of this week wrestling with the question of spending another 4k on a 360 Stroker short block or conserve the capital and go with a similar 5.2. I couldn't justify the expense of the Stroker SB for a daily driver.
Don't think I haven't thought about that,,,I mean alot! Then I look at finances (spent 5k already on the Viper and Hughes top end parts) and reality creeps back in. Since the block and bottom end of this project wasn't planned for, I'll start saving for that. Maybe next year. In the mean time, I think I'll have plenty of fun with the top end and only have a really nice 5.2.
As a side note, I'm going to go look at another 5.2 block that's basically free. I may build that one with the 5.2 Stroker rotating assembly,,,,,
As a side note, I'm going to go look at another 5.2 block that's basically free. I may build that one with the 5.2 Stroker rotating assembly,,,,,
Being right smack in the middle of the block (the weakest region), that's probably due to a slightly bent bolt, a severe overheating, a bad casting, or some combination of the three. The severe overheating might not have registered as such on the gauge -- nucleate boiling doesn't add any heat to distant parts of the cooling system where the temperature sender lives. Usually the only sign that it's happening, if there's any sign at all, is pinging.
If it was in fact nucleate boiling, you'll find bluing or worse on the cylinder walls, at the points that overheated, when you remove the pistons.
If it was in fact nucleate boiling, you'll find bluing or worse on the cylinder walls, at the points that overheated, when you remove the pistons.
I pulled the pistons and crank today off the old block, keeping them for spares. I studied the cylinder walls adjacent to the cracks and didn't see any bluing there or anywhere else for that matter. So, it'd be reasonable to eliminate the nucleate boiling cause. The rotating assembly looks normal for wear, and block was in good health except for it's fatal flaw.
Visited the scrapyard with it and the heads, $34.00 for my troubles.
Looking ahead, picking up the replacement motor on Tues.
Visited the scrapyard with it and the heads, $34.00 for my troubles.
Here she is,,,,replacement 5.2. Bought from a guy with a 2000 van. Innards look decent, no visible cracks in block. Heck it looks less worn than my original. Taking to machine shop this week for bill of health and machining. If she checks out and doesn't need boring, anything questionable about re-using the OEM pistons? I plan on re-using the rods and crank too.







