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Rotating the cam shaft on its own

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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 05:57 PM
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Default Rotating the cam shaft on its own

I have a 99 5.2l 4X4 and it hasn't run since I got it. The previous owner said he had just changed the timing chain, a bunch of sensors, etc. but it wouldn't run. I hooked it up to the laptop and it all looks good but just barely fires. Swapped all the sensors and even the computer...nothing worked.

So.....

I took the timing cover off and it looks like it was installed 180 degrees out (set the engine at #1 TDC, distributor rotor at #1, mark on the crank gear is at the top but so is the mark on the cam gear). I tried turning the camshaft but it only goes about 30 degrees and then stops. I don't want to force it so I thought I'd run it by my friends here.

Is there an interference with the pistons and valves on this engine if they're out of sync? What's the best way to get this engine lined back up? I haven't had one of these engines all the way apart before so I'm not experienced with the inner workings of it. Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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Aligning Dot to Dot on the timing set will bring the #6 piston @TDC not #1. Thats just how dodge times these motors based off of #6TDC. Was the dizzy removed or any other work trouble done?

edit.....Use a piston stop or such to verify TDC as the dizzy could be out.
 

Last edited by tweeker909; Apr 5, 2011 at 07:14 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 07:07 PM
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It's a non interference motor.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 08:12 PM
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your crank turns twice for every 1 rotation of the cam which is why it may seem like it is 180* off but it is not
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 08:26 PM
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Are both valves for number one cylinder closed the way it is set up? If so, cam timing is correct.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 01:42 AM
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My Haynes manual only talks about aligning the cam mark at the bottom with the crank mark at the top with #1 at TDC. I know that #6 is 180 degrees off of #1 so that would put the mark at the top. I guess I'll have to pull out the factory manual.

I set #1 on TDC by rotating the crank with a wrench on the compression stroke but didn't pull the valve cover off. Easy to do or just install a compression gauge for verification. Hate to make a mistake now. The distributor was removed at some point but I set that several times in the process of getting this thing figured out.

Thanks for the replies.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 08:38 AM
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i would keep turning the crank until both points line up and then check where the rotor in the distributor is pointing.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 09:32 AM
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Both dots should be at 12 oclock for #1 TDC.
Once you get the chain right, install the distributor in this manner.
http://www.bionicdodge.com/Download/...uel%20Sync.pdf
 

Last edited by zman17; Apr 6, 2011 at 09:38 AM.
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 11:41 AM
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i just changed my timing chain last week...

all i did was align the punchmarks (cam gear at 6 o'clock, crank at 12 o'clock,) pulled chain staright off, put new one right in, since the keyweights make it go in one way.....

BUT i made sure that the silver link in the chain was aligned with the cam gear punchmark....

put it back together, and runs great.....i never took out spark plugs to check for TDC, just ligned up the punchmarks, and swapped it right out...and never had a problem
 
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Old Apr 6, 2011 | 12:04 PM
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Zman -- I followed that procedure (I've been all over this board looking for ideas) and the engine does nothing different. It fires just a little bit and nothing more. That's why I figured I'd take a look at the timing gears/chain since that was the last work that was done before it quit. I don't know if something else caused the previous owner to mistakenly change the timing chain but I guess that's what happened. I tried setting the distributor in several (and I mean several) positions a few degrees off from the setting as listed in the procedure but the engine never changed -- never got better or worse.

The factory manual from 2001 discusses setting #1 at TDC and then aligning the marks for a 3.9l but doesn't mention that for the 5.2 or 5.9. I'll take your word that 12 o'clock for both is correct and, 95RAM360, I assume that that's the same procedure that the previous owner followed when he did his swap -- there would be no reason to rotate the cam 180 degrees unless the chain or gear broke which I don't think happened.

Maybe it's a wiring issue with a pinched or broken wire. I've have 4 crank sensors in this thing, three computers and switched all the other sensors from my '98 5.9l -- all no effect! I even switched the ignition switch to see it that would do anything. It's been rough.
 
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