I got by running board lights installed but wiring has become a problem. Before I wired all the lights together I decided to test one of the lights with part of the lead wire, so I splice together the wire of the light and 10in part of lead wire. I then splice the free end of the lead wire with one of my headlight wires. I know its the right wire because the previous owner left his splice on the wire when he took his running board lights of, I also know we have the same lights because there were pre-drilled holes in my running boards that exactly fit my lights. Problem is when all spliced together my test lights don't work, I've used more then one light to clarify it wasn't a faulty light.

Only 1 lead wire that I, cut a little off of

Tons of those blue splices http://superbrightbulbs.com/images/a...ick_splice.jpg

Directions-

8.Connect the lead wire of each of the lights to the lead wire using a wire splice. Insert two wires into holes of splice and use pliers to push down metal tab. Did that

9. Connect the lead wire to the headlight, taillight or parking light switch positive terminal as appropriate. What does this mean?
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Owner/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]

 

what i always do, is daisy chain them all together, so daisy chain all the grounds together, and chain all the positives together,the all you gotta do is either find a bold to ground them to, or just run it to the battery terminal, and then for the positive, im guessing you want them to be on when the headlights are on? if so, you take the switch out, and on the backside of it, look at the connector, i think its a yellow/black one, easiest way to find it is to just plug ur wire into the holes for the different wires, till you find the one that controls the on/off feature, like i said i think its yellow/black, on the right side of the connector. or you can always just run your own switch and mount it, so you can turn them on and off when you want, thats what i like doing, and in that case all you do is run a ground and positive to the switch, then the positive wires from your lights to the switch, and you still must ground the lights also. should work like a champ.

 

The wire i spliced into was already exposed. Could you please explain a little more by what you mean by taking the switch out.

 

It's incredibly common for those side splices to go wrong, with the spliced-in wire outside the bifurcation. The easiest way for a not so technical kinda guy to test is to pick up a needle tipped automotive "test light" and probe through the insulation of the wire. If there's no power in the new wire but it's present in the one you're tapping, remove and replace the side-splice carefully.

If the existing conductor (the one you're tapping into) is a switched ground you'll have to connect the clip of the test light to B+ (battery positive terminal or something connected to it) rather than to ground for the test light to behave as expected.

It's also very important that the side splice be the correct one for the wire gauge it's being applied to. If it's too large it won't pierce the insulation, if it's too small it'll cut conductors.