Well I was never able to get a link or picture to work, but I got the right part. Thanks again!

BTW, today the problem was very persistent. It died 3-4 times then went back to refusing to idle without depressing the accelerator.

I haven't had any bad experiences with duralast/autozone parts, so I went ahead and got it for $30.99 and a 2 year warranty. Changing the IAC was about a 20 minute job, but I combined it with a rear wheel cylinder replacement. I've never opened a drum brake before today... so it lasted all afternoon. But the good news is it starts every time and idles like new. I'm more than pleased.

 

I haven't ever died of an overdose, either, but I still don't fool around with heroin.

Thanks for the follow-up! Glad ya got it workin'.

 

good to know that. this site has lots of info to fix our trucks, I think every posibble issue with the trucks has happened to someone else and this forum is the best way to share your knowledge and learn from others, and the forum have really good mechanics and creative people. when possible share your experience

 

Hey guys, back again.

Well I switched it out... It worked perfectly for 2 weeks, then same thing. So I exchanged it (assumed it was a faulty part), and it worked again. But now it has gone out yet again.

GeneralJr said:
I'll bet I'm having the same problem, but I looked at the starter and couldn't see where it was shorting? The connector seemed to be insulated?

 

You said earlier that you'd never had a problem with Autozone parts?

This has been the repeated experiences of several Dodge owners over the years with Autozone-branded (Duralast) parts. Cheapest of the cheap.

I don't go to Autozone for much of anything anymore. Advance Auto, NAPA, and O'Reillys usually carry much better parts.

 

Haha, right you are... I must admit I'm probably with you now. For electrical parts or precision parts I will probably avoid Duralast.

But on the other hand, I still think it may be a short in the starter circuit. Sometimes when I go to start my truck, if I don't pause for a second in the "ON" position before turning to "START" (for it to crank), It will just act like the battery is completely dead. Then I let the key go back to "ON" for a sec and try again and it works just fine... Where to look??

 

be aware there is a mysterious interaction between the TPS and the IAC. I replaced several IAC's chasing a surging cold idle, and always reset the PCM for the new IAC. the new IAC would generally make the truck act better for awhile, and then the problem would return.

after about the 4th replacement, with several different brands - on a hunch - i replaced the TPS and the problem went away.

 

New here....I have a 2000 ram sport with the 5.9. First issue was a slightly rough jumpy idle, maybe 100 or 200 rpms at idle. Plus when in park and I'd hit the throttle, when the rpms came back down it would stall....then after a few weeks it wouldn't hold idle until it warmed up....so, I replaced the aic....seemed a little better, it would atleast hold idle but still slightly jumpy...now two weeks later back to the same crap....stalls until warm...took off the air cleaner housing and hear a loud hissing from the throttle body along with a intermittent quiet rattling noise somewhere around the back of the throttle body....was gonna try a tps next...just don't wanna keep spending money until I figure it out...money is getting tight....thanks guys..

 

Clean IAC well. Make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks.

 

Checked for vac leaks with Carb cleaner...nothing obvious....maybe ill take the iac out and clean again...