just for giggles.... try disconnecting the 8? wire connector on the drivers side of the trans. Then, take the truck for a drive. Bear in mind, you will have zero automatic function. you will have to shift the truck manually. If you don't tell it what to do, it won't do anything.... if the truck shifts fine when you tell it to, replace the governor pressure sensor, and solenoid.

while you are in there, change the filter, and adjust the bands. procedure is in the FSM.

 

Today it started out without a problem. It started acting up and he tried the manual shift and that worked fine. After that it started shifting alright again. I'm not sure if it takes awhile after you reset the computer to "straighten out". The problem seems to have stopped at least for now. I told him to drive it and if it starts acting up again, make sure to check all the wiring again. If that is okay, we will probably just go ahead and change the governor pressure sensor and solenoid to rule that out. The filter was changed a month ago when the engine was put back in the truck so that should be good to go. We didn't adjust the bands but we have the procedure for that to do. Thanks for all the advice.

 

Well here is some more fwiw: if it starts 'doing that' again, use the shifter as if its a manual... You'll eat your clutch surfaces like its cool if you let it slip.. plus you'll generate a helluva lotta heat, which is Hell on trannies...

If you do the manual shift thing, you eliminate that..

One other thing: I once had a solenoid clog, and clear just like it sounds like you have going on... It did clear, but within a few months was back to stay... Just make certain to be ready to downshift manually if it does it again. There is no sense damaging something when the band-aid is that easy.. and like I said, you could in theory do that forever and not hurt anything.

 

The transmission seemed to be working alright but last week it stopped and wouldn't move in any gear. After leaving it turned off for almost an hour, he tried it again and it worked to get home. It worked for 2 days and then stopped again and had to be towed home. The transmission shifts fine into reverse but will not move in drive. Tried to manually put it into 1st and still won't move.

He is going to climb under there today and check the wiring harness. Also told him to do the throttle cable adjustment. Any other ideas? Someone said it sounds like the rear clutch since the rear band runs reverse and manual 1st but the rear clutch is needed to move forward.

Any thoughts? He is thinking he is going to have to drop the transmission and get it rebuilt (trying to save money by dropping it himself) but we hate to do that and it wasn't necessary.

 

Try the suggesting in my previous post, and see what that does.

 

Not sure where that wiring harness is. He sees some 2 wire connectors on the transmission. One is for the speed sensor, not sure what the other is. Can you clarify where it is?

 

He finally found the wiring harness you were talking about but had a hard time getting it pulled off. He did the TV adjustment and same problems happening (won't go forward only reverse).

Not sure if this means anything but we noticed that when you put it into the drive position, it does not engage and you are able to push the vehicle forward like it is in neutral. Any ideas on what that would mean since it is not recognizing it is in drive.

 

Connector should be on the drivers side, right behind the shift linkage and such.

From the sounds of it though, might be time to drop the pan, and see if you find anything untoward......

 

Betcha it'll be a band anchor...

 

ouch.. 'hate it when somebody says that, because it's likely right.. errrr..

if it's not- and there are no sinkers in the pan- I'mah break ranks with the knowledgeable folks and say 'flush it'.. if'n it's on it's last leg anyway, it is worth it, right? It sounds almost like it's not pumping.. as in major clogging.. and a flush my remedy it.. for a little while anyway..