look under the Kit/Combo Contents tab. It's both sides in one kit.

Tip #1

When you get both drums off, stop! Only pull the springs/shoes off one side at a time. You can use the other side as a reference for how it should go back together.

Tip #2

If you have a cell phone handy, take a picture after each step. Then you can visibly see each step and what you did, and reverse the process by going thru the pictures.

Tip #3

Pay special attention to the thin metal bracket that looks like it almost touches this star shaped bolt that pushes the shoes apart down near the bottom. That is the self adjuster, and though pretty much all self adjusters suck, it'll suck even worse if it gets bent out of the correct orientation. That tab is very easy to bend, so reference the correct orientation for it, before you remove it.

Tip #4

There are tiny little thin washers behind the shoes. Don't lose those, they keep a bit of space between the parts and let air in and gases and dust out. The brakes can seize up without them.

Tip #5

Make sure the "star" or self adjusters are tight before you drive off. There should be a cut out on the back side of the axle with a rubber plug in it. when you get the wheels back on, jack up the rear of the truck, put it in neutral, pull that plug and get a brake spoon or screwdriver and push that adjuster around while spinning the wheel until you just feel some drag from the new shoes. The self adjusters suck on pretty much every car, but I've been told that if you put anti-seize on the threads of the "star" piece, they work a bit better. I have not verified that is a safe thing to do so defer to others for confirmation.

Tip #6

A Haynes or Chilton manual can go a long way on this particular job.

Tip #7

There are pins that go thru the back of the plate, they have a spring and a cap that you have to compress and then twist the cap to get them to seat. They are little bitches to get back together. They make a tool to shove the spring down and twist the cap. Worth the money. You can do it without, but polish up on your cussing. Good luck.


Tip #8

They make a special tool to reseat the long coiled springs, called brake spring pliers. Buy them, or rent if they offer it. I tried to use a screwdriver to pivot under the hook of the spring and back onto the mount, almost stabbed myself with the screwdriver twice, and damn near fish-hooked my lip with the spring once.

 

JackJ by my math the autozone/advance price is $1.80 cheaper and no shipping to boot. and warranties collectible right down the road. shoes are sold both sides, as are hardware kits. so 20 for shoes,90 for drums and 11 for hardware = $121.00. Right?

 

HeyYou, darnit your right again who would of thunk it? If you click on items included in the kit it shoes you two drums then a set of shoes (4 pieces) and the hardware kit. The devil is in the detail and you must be friends huh :P

 

AIM, i hate too double post, but you are freaking awesome. You and HeyYou need some awards. MODS can we make a DodgeForumn Helper of the year award that we can vote on or something, would be cool .

I appreciate the tips immensely. I have the 96 Service manual and I will have the haynes on hand. I will take pictures of each step and hopefully we can post them inbetween your tips add a little bit to it and make it into a DIY. Every tip you suggested Sounds spot on, and I will look into the anti-seize idea and see if its safe. Just wanted to say thanks again.

 

I ALWAYS put anti-seize on the self adjusters. It DOES help, but, not all self adjusters are so "self adjusting"..... All ya really gotta do is put a dab on the end threads, and when you screw it in all the way for brake assembly, it distributes itself nicely. (if you get just a bit squeezing out when you run the adjuster all the way in, you used enough.)

 

Oh BTW,

self adjusters supposedly work by ratcheting tighter when you brake in reverse. I always jab them really hard a few times when I back out of the driveway

 

I just started this job this evening, I failed horribly when the removable cap on the adjuster screw decided it wanted to be free. Just one quick queston, when I get every thing back together do I adjust the screw initially before I put the two top spring on or after. I ask because the retaining spring on the front shoe does not line up with the hole even with the screw fully collapsed while the bottom spring is installed.

 

I put everything together first, put the drum on, and then adjust...... step on the pedal a couple times, maybe start the truck, and run it in drive, brake, reverse, brake, shut it down, and finish adjustment. (rear end off the ground, drums secured, that way, using the brakes will make sure everything is 'in the right place', and your initial adjustment will last longer.)

 

I still cant believe with all the knowledge on dodgeforum there isn't one picture of someone doing their drums and brakes mindboggling. Either that or Stone beer is mindboggling and ima happy camper

OH BTW AWESOME:

http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/Brakes/brake_job.htm