I recently discovered that my 95 1500 2WD V6 has the timing chain "slop" that these engines are known for. I decided to go with a Cloyes, double roller unit (PN C3028x) with no tensioner. I figure this unit is more than heavy duty enough to handle a v6, and there is no tensioner to fail. The truck is running perfectly, and hasn't broken the chain or skipped any teeth, i'm simply changing the chain before one of these happens.

My question is :

When I first remove the timing cover, will the old sprockets allready be lined up with the timing dots at 6 and 12? If not, am I supposed to rotate the engine by hand until they do, and then remove the sprokets and chain without letting them move again? I know that the new set HAS to go on with the dots at 6 and 12, my only concern is how to properly take off the old ones.

 

Run the number one cylinder up to TDC, ready to fire. Then just put the gears/chain on how they fit. It will be "right". You will end up with the dots lined up, or, both dots at the top of the gears.... don't recall which. Dont turn anything once you have the gears and such off....

 

So if the timing set is still properly aligned, putting the #1 cylinder at TDC should result in the timing marks on both sprockets lining up. And if I rotate the old timing set until the marks line up, it should place the #1 cylinder at TDC. I've heard that you can technically place both sprockets with the dot at 12, but that seems like it would put you 180 degrees off to me. I think I have things in order, but I wanted to double check with everyone before I get started on it tommorrow.

 

If I'm not mistaken with the dots lined up toward each other #6 will be in TDC firing position.

 

Pull it apart, and before you take the gears off, check and see where your alignment marks are at. Put them someplace convenient, and just install the new set the same way.

 

Thats what I originaly figured you were supposed to do, but I got hung up on the fact that the instructions insist that the new set must go on at 12 and 6.

 

In all reality, I don't think it matters where the marks are, just so long as you don't move anything while the gears are off..... so long as cam and crank maintain the same relationship to each other, it'll work just fine.