Yes I do 1.7 roller rockers. I did an OH on my truck before, about three years ago and all the parts are the same. It worked before with no problems.

 

What exactly do you consider an "overhaul" of the engine? My definition would be a complete tear down and rebuild of the engine. What exactly have you done?


As you overlashed the valves and you have adjustable rockers, I would review the correct process to find zero lash.

If you changed the camshaft, there are no guarantees that the old pushrods are the correct length.

If you have not changed camshafts, then it was indeed the adjustable rockers overlashed.

 

My engine OH consist of a complete teardown of the engine. This is the third OH I have done on my truck and the only problem I have encountered. The major parts that were reworked was the crank, rods and cylinder heads. All other parts were in serviceable condition and within tolerance. All bearings, seal, pushrods (same size) and piston rings were replace. The pistons, cam, rods, roller tappets and roller rockers were reused.

 

Readjust your valves, and you should be golden.

 

ok what size are to the rockers and if you had the head shaved and plained and squaired then you will also need to shorten the push rods the same amout as you shaved the heads. or compensate with the rockers. im getting ready to do they same then with my motor but im going to research the hell out of it so im not where you are now. also are you running a double chain or gear to gear. because if you have the cam off 180 it will act like its got the timing on 100% but will be opening the valves. well the pistons are up. you need to pull the cam cover off and make sure that the mark on the cam gear and the crank gear are aligned in the center of the motor not on the tops of each gear (commem mistake) i also would be checking to see if you primed the lifters and that the push rods are really the right lanth they say to lay them in oil for several days so they will fill them with oil allowing for a true measurement and no cladering on start up. i would also be checking to see if your lifters and rockets are in the correct location. there is a differance between the intake and the exhaust lobs so there may be a differance in puchrod lanth. (idk for sure i know that the dohc im rebuilding for work has different size push rods)

 

I talked to the machine shop guy and he told me that since each valve has a different cut on the valve seat and valve stem, the zero lash adjustment does not apply. I have to loosen the roller rockers and then get the engine running. While it is running, I adjust each individual valve till is sounds smooth. What do you think about that?

 

it's messy.

I don't know if they have the neat little clips to put over the oil holes on the rockers for chrysler engines, but, you WANT them if you are going to adjust the valves with the engine running.

I have done this on GM engines, and trust me, the clips are a requirement.....

I have also seen folks cut the tops out of valve covers, such that the can have them on, and still adjust the valves, that keeps oil from running out of the head, and on to the nice, hot, exhaust system......

 

I think that's crazy. Zero lash is found on a per-rocker basis. Regardless of what has been done to the seat or stem, the valve spring will pull the valve up to max height. Zero lash can be a different torque for every rocker in the block.

Make sure the valve you are working on is on the base circle, or backside of the camshaft, where there is no lift. After you put the pushrod in the cup, tighten the rocker arm until the pushrod just stops any up and down movement between the lifter and rocker arm. That point is zero lash, it's not a specific torque amount, just wiggle the pushrod up and down with your fingers and tighten the rocker arm down until the pushrod stops moving up and down. Go a 1/2 turn tighter past zero lash to set lifter pre load. Move to the next and rotate the engine to be sure you stay on the base circle for each valve you lash. I think there is a chart on bionic dodge that tells you a specific order of which valve to tighten in order so that you don't waste time needlessly cranking the engine around, plus it helps if the engine is all buttoned up and you can't see the cam.

Any way, after you've hit every valve fire it up. If the valve train is noisy and you are sure the lifters are inflated, remove the covers and go 1/4 turn more on the rocker arms. Nothing should have to be done while it's running.

 

You make more sense than the machine shop. Where can I find the chart on bionic chart?

 

It's the 5th or 6th post down:

http://www.bionicdodge.com/bionic/index.php?topic=297.0