Nevermind, saw it ran ya 2-2.5K where did you acquire all of the parts?

 

The best will be a standalone, cheapest will be FMU and BTM, SCT is a good compromise.

I purchased parts from many places, eBay, Race Parts Solutions, Frozen Boost, Columbia River Mandrel Bends, DIY Auto tune, forum members, ect.

 

What is a good standalone system?

 

There are many good ones, Accel DFI, FAST XFI, Big Stuff 3, Megasquirt, Haltech, AEM, ect.

Megasquirt is a lot more DIY than the others but it's the cheapest and still very powerful, you can use it to control fuel pumps, electric fans and other external solenoids. It can control boost (need to buy some extra hardware), supports multiple fuel and spark tables, it has launch control, ect. It also has overboost protection, so it will cut the fuel and/or spark if boost goes over (wastegate fails, ect) what you specify as safe. Taking over ignition on a Mopar is possible but a lot trickier than a Ford or Chevy, so I run MS in fuel only mode, it just controls the injectors, and I have a BTM to retard timing while in boost, it's adjustable from 0-3º of retard per PSI of boost.

I'd suggest doing a lot more reading, it still sounds like you have a ways to go before you should tackle something like this, no offense.

 

No, I won't be doing the install ill be getting MUCH assistance from 2 people. I just am confused on the whole electronic side of this sh**!

 

Going with boost means you need MUCH more gas, need to be able to alter mixture ratios for PRESSURE in the intake, (rather than vacuum....) need to dial back timing, and a few other odd things. With the right parts, it can all be handled by the stock PCM, with the right programming. Getting the programming right is the fun part. That's what you need data logging, and the wideband O2 sensor for. Not having knock sensors on these trucks makes it a bit more interesting, as the computer just goes by tables.... there is no variability there, as the computer can't know when knock is happening. (which I find REALLY stupid....... seriously, GM has had knock sensors as long as they have had EFI....... not like its a secret......)

Your best bet would be to talk to Hemifever, and see EXACTLY what info he would need to write you some good tunes.

 

It really all depends on how much boost you really are looking to run. The more boost, the more work the motor requires to handle it, and the tunning involved.

I've set up and programmed a few big boost, full management systems, and it's not as bad as everyone thinks,as long as you understand what your doing.

A few tid bits........ The stock computer has about enough compensation for about 5psi if you take into account of atmospheric pressure changes from sea level to mountain top.

SOOO technically if you block the pressure from the map, and add a rising rate fuel pressure regulator you can safely run about 5-7 psi without having to retard timing. You could use a EGT in the manifold befor the turbo to monitor exhaust temps from the port, 1300 deg. F is a safe number. Then run a wideband after the turbo to measure mixture. You'll find too much gas or too little gas will raise temps and as well as too much or too little timing. The two together work as a very nice tunning gauge. Then add a aftermarket nock-sensor with visual and sound indicator.

I agree that a full management should be used, for performance and protection of your investment. I have seen turbo set-ups that have been made to work, the way I stated above,but mediocre at best. Spend the money to do it right now, and you'll save way more down the line.

 

More like ~1500º, these aren't diesels.

 

I have always built from the ground up with a Turbo or Super Charged engine, if your going to invest that kind of money, you better make sure the engine has been built to handle it

 

On a new build, setting a baseline map at 5psi, running conservative timing and modest enrichment, it is a safe point to begin dialing in. As you fine tune, yes the temp will rise.