1998 1500 4W 5.9

My right front hub blew so I started to replace it along with the Seal. I had no problem pulling the old one. I tried to get the new one in without having to pull the pinion and the drivers side off. I rigged a thread rod with a washer and that didnt work out so I bought the driver kit from NAPA. How I managed to destroy the driver itself? yea... I have been through 2 seals and even used the old hub with the thread rod to tighten it and set it but it goes in crooked. I cant get the thing in.... its killing me smalls.

Any advice on what to do? I am not sure why I cant get the thing in. It shouldnt be this difficult, that I do know.

Dana 44...

 

Alright. I want to start by saying that I'm 17 and work at a used dealership, so I am not the most knowledgable person to ask, but I figure things out as I go. Recently both seals went out on my truck. The first one, left side, started leaking when I did my ujoint on the drivers side. A buddy of mine helped me and we did the seal. The threaded rod idea does work, but there is an easier way. I know how you feel cause the first time, i put it in crooked, got everything back together and drove it onkly to see the leak again. The approach I took, was to just beat the seal in with a hammer. There is enough room to tap in in with a hammer for the left seal (good luck with the right outer seal by the cad, thats the hard one). Dont fool with the drive, just put the disc over the seal and tap it in with a hammer. Someone might have a better idea, but thats how I did it and now 400 miles later still no leaks. Give it a try, cant hurt.

 

NAPA does NOT sell the correct tool for installing the seal. http://quad4x4.com/

 

Sorry, its the right side... just noticed i put left. Its a nightmare. Yea the kit i got from NAPA wasnt right for the job. 45$ gone. Im going to check out that site, thanks man.

 

The topic of replacing the right side (CAD) seal has been discussed many times. Basically, you can spend ~$120 and get the proper tool and get the first seal you try to seat, or rig your own tool and give it a shot. You may, or may not, save money using a jury-rigged tool - depends upon the number of seals you waste before one finally seats properly.

 

What I did for the right side outer seal by the CAD, is I first rented a seal installer from autozone. I bought a threaded rod (dont remember the size) two large washers, and two nuts. I drilled out the right size disc from the seal installer kit (shhh dont tell), put that on the rod, with a washer behind it, and the nut behind that. Then I pulled the right seal in. Thats how I did mine.

 

i built a tool out of threaded rod and washers that worked fine.
the trick is that the washer must be the exact right size to fit the outer ring of the seal, but not too big to get stuck in the cavity.

i think i used 5/8 rod, and then welded two washers together to get the right inner and outer diameters for the passenger side. the drivers side used a standard big washer.

i spent 2 or 3 or 4 hours cobbling all this **** together.

 

there was a post on this site with photos of a guy who used a prybar, some wood as a fulcrum and the proper socket to fit the seal. I know this sound vague but it mad alot of sense IF you can find that post. stupid simple, and the other posts in that thread really put that method over.

 

That's what I tried the first 3 times. (it leaked) Then I tried making a threaded rod puller.(it leaked) After taking it apart 50 times, I finally gave in and bought the tool. Guess what, (no leak).

 

first off, glad to have you back zman17! will think twice about recommending that method. do you have a link to the tool that worked?