big lift endlinks?
thanks for looking. the springs are pretty wild. lol
Many people run with out a sway bar and feel that the ride is better without it on rough roads....with the size of the bar it doesnt do much unless your taking turns at speed
With that kind of truck I dont think you have a problem with that
My suggestion is undo endlinks and strap the bar up out of the way, drive it like that if you like it, take it all the way off if you feel you still need it on make your own endlinks.
measure the slide and bolt and go till its close to stock angle and buy slides and bolts that will work with it.
With that kind of truck I dont think you have a problem with that
My suggestion is undo endlinks and strap the bar up out of the way, drive it like that if you like it, take it all the way off if you feel you still need it on make your own endlinks.
measure the slide and bolt and go till its close to stock angle and buy slides and bolts that will work with it.
With the sway bar disconnected you will need limiting straps if you plan on flexing the suspension to keep from flexing too far and poping a spring off the bucket. I heard of some people using hose clamps to clamp the coil to the bucket instead of limiting straps but not sure if I would trust a hose clamp. This is of course if you plan on flexing the suspension that far.
Last edited by 98ramowner; Jul 13, 2011 at 12:52 AM.
saw that truck on craigslist for a while. whatd you pay for it?
I would run a stabilizer, can't imagine my ram without one...although I tried it once, for about 10 miles of highway in a crosswind.
Your short links aren't doing you a service though, but I stumbled on a website a while back that makes longer ones that will allow your bar to work properly.
Have you tried a search? You won't find much under Dodges, but some Jeeps use similar setups.
EDIT: Haven't found what I'm looking for, but found these beefy ORU units. I know that you can buy them direct from Off Road Unlimited and the end links can be relaced with studs or the hiem joints can use an adapter which Top gun Customz sells for your studs.
BTW...if I don't tell you this I'm not doing my job. There's a simple DYI method to finding the correct length for your links.
Your truck and axles need to be on a level surface with the tire pressures equal on the front axle.
Youll need to have someone rotate the sway bar upwards. You'll want to measure the distance from the bottom of where your end link mounts on the sway bar to your axle mount when your tape measure is parallel to your coil spring. That sounds complicated but its not. It does require some patience.
Now take the total length and subtract for the bushings and washers. I go with 3/4 inch because I use urethane wahers which don't deflect much. This should give you proper length for your link body.
I've also used a cheap piece of threaded rod and a couple nuts and washers to find the length. That may be easier if you haven't got a helper.
FYI...if the link is too short or long, it willnot be parallel to the coils. So...when pressure is applied to the sway bar, The links will deflect rather than push the energy of the roll into the bar, truck body, and opposite link. Thats why most people say their sway bar isn't effective when they've lifted thier truck, they simply haven't corrected the link geometry.
Lastly, if monster trucks, and others run some type of sway bar, shouldn't you? I haven't read of a lift manufactuer yet that says to remove the sway bar as part of thier installation.
Your short links aren't doing you a service though, but I stumbled on a website a while back that makes longer ones that will allow your bar to work properly.
Have you tried a search? You won't find much under Dodges, but some Jeeps use similar setups.
EDIT: Haven't found what I'm looking for, but found these beefy ORU units. I know that you can buy them direct from Off Road Unlimited and the end links can be relaced with studs or the hiem joints can use an adapter which Top gun Customz sells for your studs.
BTW...if I don't tell you this I'm not doing my job. There's a simple DYI method to finding the correct length for your links.
Your truck and axles need to be on a level surface with the tire pressures equal on the front axle.
Youll need to have someone rotate the sway bar upwards. You'll want to measure the distance from the bottom of where your end link mounts on the sway bar to your axle mount when your tape measure is parallel to your coil spring. That sounds complicated but its not. It does require some patience.
Now take the total length and subtract for the bushings and washers. I go with 3/4 inch because I use urethane wahers which don't deflect much. This should give you proper length for your link body.
I've also used a cheap piece of threaded rod and a couple nuts and washers to find the length. That may be easier if you haven't got a helper.
FYI...if the link is too short or long, it willnot be parallel to the coils. So...when pressure is applied to the sway bar, The links will deflect rather than push the energy of the roll into the bar, truck body, and opposite link. Thats why most people say their sway bar isn't effective when they've lifted thier truck, they simply haven't corrected the link geometry.
Lastly, if monster trucks, and others run some type of sway bar, shouldn't you? I haven't read of a lift manufactuer yet that says to remove the sway bar as part of thier installation.
Last edited by dsertdog56; Jul 13, 2011 at 04:01 PM.




