yes unfortunatley the "rusty" part of this particular truck is severe. Was a good idea,the power steering, thanks.Just this sucker couldn't be welded on there any tighter. Truck was used for plowing,somewhere they use calcium as ice melt I guess b4 i got it. I am just :""><<> frustrated!!! .Fortunatley i have time and just gotta walk away and vent, i'll work on it again tommorrow. It' summer ,I can ride the wing to work! Thinking i may have to weld up a "jig" so i can press it out somehow,thats my latest idea,just gotta figure it out

 

Drown it with chemicals before you crash out tonight.

 

I'm having same issue, extention didn't work. I've been spraying with oil, heating, hammering, chizzling, i'm about ready to take a cutting wheel to it. Hopefully something gives here soon. I'm suprised this job is fighting me this much, my 96' only has 42K on it. It was my dads truck and he bought it new before he passed, but he did alot of pulling and towing with it. Well, guess I'm back out to give it another shot.

 

jsam
the old rusty99 of mine finally let go. Rotor is off and bearing is intact!!!! i am relieved. Turns out had to put a puller on it,wich after reading some previous posts ,I did not want to do.
Any way put puller on it and yes it has been getting twice or more soakings in PB blaster daily for 2days. I only added some preasure with puller and let her sit for 20 mins while heating and rapping with brass hammer,then give the puller 1 or 2 more turns and repeat for another 15 mins,took another hour or a little more of that process for it come off, you get the idea. Seems 3 elements and plenty of em got it off of there,HEAT ,TIME AND PREASSURE. If you got time use it. Still a ridiculous task to remove a simple brake rotor.reassemble tommorrow night for me . Best of luck to you hope it comes off ok for you

 

Hey rusty, glad to hear it worked out for you. A bubby of mine gave me a can of that PB Blaster so I really soaked mine, and he also loaned me an air chizzle. So thurs. afternoon I finally worked the hubs free just working my way around that 4 hole flange with the brake dust shield behind it going from side to side and top to bottom. So I had to buy new hub and bearings wich was $300 for both sides not including rotors pads and calipers for each side, so I'm into this job for about $600. I can't imagine what it would've cost if I had a shop do this job. Well everybody thanks for all your advise.

 

I cut my nut off wit a grinder.I broke a 1/2 in breaker bar with pipe and bent 3/4 inch ratchet with the jack handle. so I cut it mosy of the way then used a cold chisel .

 

I did this job (new wheel bearings, new ball joints, new rotors, new inner axle seals, etc.) on my '96 Ram 2500 4x4 with front Dana 60 differential. It was a real time consuming job and stressful on tools, especially since this was a truck used as a snow plow truck before I bought it. I used my 3/4" Ingersoll-Rand impact to remove the center castle nut. I'd suggest using 3/4" drive breaker bars and ratchets if quality air tools are not available to you. Harbor Freight tools has them at decent prices.

 

Three year old thread guys.

 

Oops - hate it when that happens..

 

My 98 2500 4x4 has a 1 3/4 inch nut on the hub I see a lot of people stating different sized nut. Do you know why mine is so large? I broke I/2 inch breaker bar (with jack handle ) and bent 3/4 inch ratchet trying to get it loose .Now it's cut off with grinder and cold chisel . Just bought new nut on line for 8.00. But I pulled the hub bearing and rotor ***. off with gear puller. Now I cant get it to go back on all the way. The outside edge of the u joint hits the top of the lower ball joint on the threads Is there a special way to reinstall the bearing rotor ***.