Probably just another little issue cropping up, and not necessarily related to the cam swap. Sounds like the intake on number 4 has some issues though. If the spring is still intact, and the valve sits lower than the rest, chances are good its bent....

 

The reason I ask about the timing set, is because the mopar performance set is very deceptively marked.

 

The cam was a clevite 229-2324
intake lift .258- exhaust lift .269- gross intake lift .413- gross exhaust lift .430
36 degree overlap - intake duration 253 - exhaust duration 266

The timing gear / chain set was a clevite 9-3089
The gears were both keyed, and I set the marks at TDC (lower gear dot on top, and upper gear had two marks that line up verticle straight up.

 

I want to thank HEYYOU and AIM4SQUIRRELS!!! It's good to get advice that makes sence. It may have been coincidental that the valve went. I will pull the head (and intake again!!!!) and look at the springs, and maybe see if the valve was sticking.

 

If the valve is sticking..... should be able to break it loose just by whacking it with a hammer a couple time. (drive it straight down.....) Question becomes, WHY is it sticking......

 

Well that isn't exactly the specs on the stock camshaft, but close enough out shouldn't have piston to valve issues that I can see, unless the overlap is a bit too tight.

 

Hate to throw a curve into this thread, ....but...
Originally, when I found cylinder #2 was a lifter, and worn cam lobe issue, I noticed I could push the exhaust #2 cylinder lifter up and down with the push rod, like it was spongy. That's when it cam apart for the new cam and lifters. Now, coming apart for a bent valve???? on cylinder #4. I removed all rockers, and noticed that the pushrod does the same thing on #2 exhaust. Could we have a bigger issue??? The oil pressure by the guage is great....Just thinking...maybe no oil feed to the front lifter???

 

That shouldn't matter. If the lifter wasn't pumping up, it wouldn't open the valve all the way, so, it should be the cause of interference.

 

Oil hole on the side of the lifter should point upward towards the intake manifold. If it points down, it will receive insufficient oiling. no hydraulic pressure in the lifter could cause the pushrod to jump out of the rocker arm or lifter cup. If the pushrod settles on the top edge of the lifter or at an odd spot on the rocker arm, it could hold the valve open.

weirder stuff has happened.

 

Good points!!!
The reason I brought this up was due to the original cam lobe wear and lifter (#2 cylinder). The lifter for the bad lobe was "squishy" like it wasn't pumped up. Maybe due to the bad cam lobe. Funny how with a new cam and lifters, that same spot with the new lifter is also "squishy." Just thinking out loud. I will know more once I get her apart. What caused the #4 cylinder to bend a valve, ... and I will try to pump up that lifter to see if I can get it to hold. I will look to verify that the oil hole is on the upper side of the lifter. Maybe once the cylinder is off I can see why the valve bent...one can only hope. I was just concerned that I might have a blocked oil passage affecting lifter pump, but believe I should see the oil pooled around the block casting near the lifter...sound good???