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peeling clear coat

Old Jul 26, 2011 | 01:10 AM
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Default peeling clear coat

So the clear coat on my truck started peeling on hood and top of cab and the pilars between windshield and doors.

Looks like crap. Anything one can do?
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 01:34 AM
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Once the clear coat starts to peel it continues peeling until it's all gone or you repaint.

If you decide to repaint, don't even think of having clear coat applied. The required bake temperature is too high for a complete vehicle to withstand.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 01:36 AM
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Not much you can do. If its really bad I would take it to a body shop have them take the clear off and re-shoot with new clear. There may be a few little fixes but these will be short term fixes.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 11:04 AM
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My Jeep is doing that, unless you can afford a new paint Job then i dont think you can do anything about it.

Just make sure you keep an eye on the paint underneeth. That washes off over time to bare metal and then it starts to rust. When that happens you gatta sand it back to bare metal and put a primer on and spray paint it to protect your vehicles body front rust.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 12:43 PM
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I tried to DIY fix my clear coat, it doesn't work. sanded the area down to the factory primer, and aftermarket paint just doesn't stick. wrinkled up in about 3 months. I paid an auto body shop to repaint it, hood and roof cost me about $800, but they warranty it for life. They're going to hate me when I come back in ten years.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2011 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by UnregisteredUser
If you decide to repaint, don't even think of having clear coat applied. The required bake temperature is too high for a complete vehicle to withstand.
Absolutely False. You are confused with the factories paint which is a High Bake Enamel (400+) totally different from a body shops Urethane Paint which is baked at (140 degrees metal temp which usually is 180-200 ambient air temp) safe for entire vehicle.

Though I would recommend taking the propane injection tanks off if you had them.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2011 | 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by krs7272
Absolutely False. You are confused with the factories paint which is a High Bake Enamel (400+) totally different from a body shops Urethane Paint which is baked at (140 degrees metal temp which usually is 180-200 ambient air temp) safe for entire vehicle.

Though I would recommend taking the propane injection tanks off if you had them.
+1 All in all Id let your local body shop deal with it if you want it to turn out nice and last for some time.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2011 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by krs7272
Absolutely False. You are confused with the factories paint which is a High Bake Enamel (400+) totally different from a body shops Urethane Paint which is baked at (140 degrees metal temp which usually is 180-200 ambient air temp) safe for entire vehicle.

Though I would recommend taking the propane injection tanks off if you had them.
Uethane clears do not need to be baked. They have 2 parts, clear and catalyst. The catalyst is a hardener for the clear. The main reason for baking after paint is time. It speeds the curing process so that there is less chance of contamination, and the vehicle can be moved.
 
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