Lift Question.
Current lift [not my doing...] : 5-1/2" [possibly 5"] skyjacker with a 2" leveler on top in the front and a 5-1/2 block with an add-a-leaf in the rear.
The guy that did it completely forgot to put the helper plate back on top of the leafs under the ubolts to hold things still.
I really like the way the truck looks with the current lift and the 37" tires. But the lift is pretty shaky as it is. the back axle rolls a bit and it shutters the very last moment before it comes to a stop [could be tranny...]
SO , should I just do the right thing
and remove the leveling kit and drop the truck 2" and switch to 35"s OR!!! is there a way I can stabilize this lift as it sits? [other than buying new leaf springs in the rear...]
Also, I need shocks front and rear. It looks like the skyjackers that came with the lift are still on there. Can I just buy the shocks for the 5" lift? and use them even if I do not drop down? or do i need to decide which I am going to do then pick the shocks. all these places say 1-5" on the shocks anyway and I am sure I have shocks for the 5" on there now... but that could be a lot of my problem, lol
I am getting the plates for the top of the ubolts [do not know what they are really called] tomorrow from the dealer. And If i can get the ubolts off without cutting them I will try that first. If that stops the roll in the rear I may call it good.
The guy that did it completely forgot to put the helper plate back on top of the leafs under the ubolts to hold things still.
I really like the way the truck looks with the current lift and the 37" tires. But the lift is pretty shaky as it is. the back axle rolls a bit and it shutters the very last moment before it comes to a stop [could be tranny...]
SO , should I just do the right thing
Also, I need shocks front and rear. It looks like the skyjackers that came with the lift are still on there. Can I just buy the shocks for the 5" lift? and use them even if I do not drop down? or do i need to decide which I am going to do then pick the shocks. all these places say 1-5" on the shocks anyway and I am sure I have shocks for the 5" on there now... but that could be a lot of my problem, lol
I am getting the plates for the top of the ubolts [do not know what they are really called] tomorrow from the dealer. And If i can get the ubolts off without cutting them I will try that first. If that stops the roll in the rear I may call it good.
Last edited by etdavenport; Aug 9, 2011 at 07:14 PM.
the roll is coming from to things. 1, the blocks. the best (albiet most expensive)way to fix it is to get new leaf springs. the other ways is to drop down to a 3 or 4 inch block and keep your aal's. 5 inch blocks are NOT safe. dont ask me how i know. and the other thing is the leaf spring perches on our axles are concave not flat, so that means our leafs (and in your case blocks) dont sit flush with the perches which allows axle roll. the only way to fix that is to cut off your old spring perches and weld on flat ones.
It' got the drop arm and an adjustable track arm. Think that came with the lift. Perches too. They are flat to the block and spring. But the block is HUGE and it is rolling for sure. One is even crooked... I can see where its been scraping. I really hate to drop down to 35's i know its only 1 inch of actual height but...I want a solid lift... And I do not want to pay the 150 apiece for offset balljoints and the huge cost for new leafs..
unless your front tires are caving in at the top you dont need to worry about ball joints. you could try to reposition the croooked block but that wont fix your problem the only thing that will is a set of new lift leafs or a set of equally expensive ladder bars
I've got the exact setup you do and I've beat the **** out of my truck and I don't have any problems at all. What kind of ubolts are on there? A good set of properly torqued ubolts should fix your problem.
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those ladder bars are good for a street truck but they would severly limit flex in a lifted truck. the would need something like a shackle at the frame end to allow for the proper articulation
Blocks are a funny thing. Some people hate them, myself ive never had an issue. I always get told im wrong on this (hahaha) but dont care cause they have never failed me but i run stacked blocks welded together. A factory 3in and a 3in from fabtech. If you run blocks just take an inpact and crank it up and tightn the nuts on the ubolts. Youll be fine with the blocks. Traction bars are great idea to help the roll. Like big red said if you want flex with them put them on a shackle set up and you will stil have good flex. Shocks you will need to get longer if you keep your lift. I ran into the same problem. I got my shocks from a 6in 05 power wagon lift. The front bottom collers for the shock bushing you have to grind down a fuzz but they work good on and off road!
Last edited by Kraiger; Aug 11, 2011 at 12:18 AM.
If it had a shackle at one end, it would just be a decoration.







