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IAT Senor Relocation

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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 11:48 PM
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Default IAT Senor Relocation

I was surprised I could not find this info on here already. My search habits are not eh best though.

I was trying to do some simple cheap upgrades and wanted to move the IAT Sensor to the intake tube. I have an AEM intake on my truck already and was just wondering if anyone here had done it before and knew what the Tap size was. I am pretty sure a 1/2" standard fine would do it.

Also, I wanted to make sure I was relocating teh right sensor too, lol.

the IAT for a 96 5.9L is the one on the passenger side that is sticking out of the atual intake correct? And If I relocate it, I should just be able to buy a new one, leave the old one in the intake and just move the wires.

Any other cheap easy performance gains for the 5.9L? I have a throttlebody spacer on it now [I think they are pretty much worthless though, last guy to own it put it there] and it really could use some mid range power. 1st gear is awesome [4.56 gears] but then second and third suck bad enough it tried to kick down half the time just to get going on a mild hill.

If anyone has a pic of the IAC circle or something tht would be awesome. having trouble finsing on in google that i can actually see..

Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 07:35 AM
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The TB spacer is a paper weight. The design on the intake manifold makes no use of it. As far as the IAT goes, you will get a little better throttle response because you are fooling the pcm into thinking the motor is running cooler, so it will dump more fuel into it. At the expense of even worse MPG.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 08:13 AM
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in addition to what Zman said, a cooler IAT will also advance timing.. I think I read it is capable of up to 1.5* adjustment either way.. you're most likely going to ping in those circumstances... dat ain't good..
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by drewactual
in addition to what Zman said, a cooler IAT will also advance timing.. I think I read it is capable of up to 1.5* adjustment either way.. you're most likely going to ping in those circumstances... dat ain't good..
I knew about the feul increase and was not too concerned considering I get about 15 or so with the way my axle ratio worked out. [37's on 4.56's] if I stay out of the pedal I can actually do quite well. I am even using exact numbers to do the mileage conversion, [not just dividing the gallons into the trip] But I did not know about the Timing adjust. that I do not want.

Any other Ideas on good cheap horsepower? preferably mid range? I cant afford headers... And I an not worried bout fuel economy. If that were the case I would have bought a diesel...To gripe about economy on one of these trucks is like bitching about the wind on a motorcycle..
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by etdavenport
To gripe about economy on one of these trucks is like bitching about the wind on a motorcycle..

LOL, ain't that the truth. Do a search for "performance upgrades" or "I want more power" in the advanced search (under 2nd gen ram), and your head will spin with all the info.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by etdavenport
Any other Ideas on good cheap horsepower?
Simply put, horsepower doesn't come cheap...
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 03:55 PM
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I acctually relocated my intake temp sensor to the middle of the intake below the throttle body in a raised blank in the original cast. you can only see it from the underside of the manifold though. It dropped temp reading approx. 20 deg. and made a noticeable improvement. I acctually gained 1-2 mpg to boot.

Placing it elsewhere will cause the issues stated above because of the drastic change in temp reading. Try replacing your engine coolant temp sensor also, it will give a major power drop as it goes bad because of the hotter reading it gives. It should read 192-196 with a good thermostat. As they go bad they tend to read 206 or better.
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 07:48 PM
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I moved mine to my 14x3 when I did my airgap so its not a bad thing to do this
 
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Old Aug 15, 2011 | 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by lastrights
I moved mine to my 14x3 when I did my airgap so its not a bad thing to do this
but you're also running an air gap + 180* stat, and SCT tune.. which allows you to advance timing a bit without serious threat of pinging..

the temperature of the truck running 195*, coupled with an inaccurate air density reading will give the PCM the green light to advance.. though the engine has much less dense air coming into it..

best I can manage to gather about the IAT is this:

it has bearing (coupled with upwind o2's and temperature readings) on a/f, and timing.. a cold engine with dense air needs more catalyst (fuel) to ignite the a/f- so, it adds it.. it is also more predictable in WHEN it explodes, so it advances timing (hits the spark plug at TDC).. but that isn't whats happening if you move your IAT- because you aren't getting as cool/dense an air charge as the PCM thinks you are- it advances timing on a warmer engine than really is- which means instead of applying spark right after TDC (which would eliminate ping at the cost of a few less ponies), it advances it to ignite sooner- and may catch the more volatile hot a/f mix on the upstroke- which causes pre-detonation, which we call ping.. it's hell on bearings and pistons.

with an SCT and an Air-Gap, I hope you told Sean to program accordingly.. I personally think the PCM will figure it out on it's own, but that takes drive time.. some damage can be done in the time it takes the PCM to learn the new set up.. I wouldn't be too worried about it, but it IS there..
 
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