im so ready to drive this truck off a cliff!
as the title states, im so frustrated with this piece of crap im about ready to sell it or scrap it or something! started blowing smoke so i tested, bad head gaskets. pulled the heads and they were cracked too, so i ordered new odessa reinforced heads and put everything back together. since getting it back together i actually got a job, the one good thing going right now, but ever since i got the motor back together when i try to start it it just cranks a couple times and dies out like the battery is dead. i took my battery in, had it tested, they say its bad so i buy a new one. come home put it in and same thing. fml! so i take the starter out and call the parts house and they tell me i have 2 days left on the warranty, come down for an exchange... when i get there they test the starter and it tests fine. fml! so i come home, pissed! screw dodge... so i start looking into wiring, i replaced all the wires going to the battery. from the ground to block, 12v to starter and the fuse box and a new signal wire for the starter. get in crank it and it cranks for longer than it has, maybe 8-10 seconds then same ol sheit, like the battery is dead. i tried swapping relays. im lost, frustrated, sad, mad, just about every negative emotion u can think of.
i hate this truck and i never should have bought it, but i need to get it running so i can drive my daughter and i need to be able to get to and from my new job on days where weather doesnt permit me to ride a bike. any thoughts and ideas please!!!!
if i sell it as is i wont get sheit, but if its running i can at least get a little bit to put towards something not so sheitty...
its a 94 4x4 1500 with a 96 5.9 and manual trans
ive seriously only put maybe 2-3000 miles on this stupid truck in a year because it never runs! the most unreliable expensive vehicle ive ever owned!
please help!!!!
thanks, jesse
i hate this truck and i never should have bought it, but i need to get it running so i can drive my daughter and i need to be able to get to and from my new job on days where weather doesnt permit me to ride a bike. any thoughts and ideas please!!!!
if i sell it as is i wont get sheit, but if its running i can at least get a little bit to put towards something not so sheitty...
its a 94 4x4 1500 with a 96 5.9 and manual trans
ive seriously only put maybe 2-3000 miles on this stupid truck in a year because it never runs! the most unreliable expensive vehicle ive ever owned!
please help!!!!
thanks, jesse
crank shaft position sensor is bad i bet. its located right behind the passenger side head. bet you bumped it and broke it when pulling the old head or putting the new one on. either that or you crushed the wires for it. not hard to do.
i see a couple of problems with your idea of driving it off the cliff...
1 - it won't start. ha ha.
2 - you'd want to remove those new heads.
so after replacing heads - it has not started at all - correct?
can you check fuel pressure? 2 ways to do it. technical way is to use a gauge on the test port. shadetree way is to depress the valve. if it shoots gas directly into you eyeball - its enough pressure to start it. so use a rag to catch the gas and don't smoke.
do you have spark at the plugs?
tell me more about the starter/battery problem. does it turn the engine slow and then stop turning it. like a dead battery. then what, does it recover? or do you charge it, or jump it, or what.
do you have an CEL codes?
check connectors for unattached connectors -
crank position sensor
cam position sensor
throttle position
IAC
grounds at Power Steering/accy bracket.
injectors.
1 - it won't start. ha ha.
2 - you'd want to remove those new heads.
so after replacing heads - it has not started at all - correct?
can you check fuel pressure? 2 ways to do it. technical way is to use a gauge on the test port. shadetree way is to depress the valve. if it shoots gas directly into you eyeball - its enough pressure to start it. so use a rag to catch the gas and don't smoke.
do you have spark at the plugs?
tell me more about the starter/battery problem. does it turn the engine slow and then stop turning it. like a dead battery. then what, does it recover? or do you charge it, or jump it, or what.
do you have an CEL codes?
check connectors for unattached connectors -
crank position sensor
cam position sensor
throttle position
IAC
grounds at Power Steering/accy bracket.
injectors.
+1 on the ckps.. but, i'll give you $400 for the heads if they're still good. :-)
The ckps sounds right though.
The ckps sounds right though.
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lemme go out and dick with it for a few, ill have some answers shortly...
dhvaughn-
no, hasnt started since new heads
i can check fuel pressure, and i will but it was fine before parked, i believe around 40psi?
will check spark
as far as a cel, the truck is a 94 with a 96 motor and trans and the plug for the data bus deal was never added. i have one that i am going to wire in so i can tell but havent gotten to it yet.
it cranks very nice maybe 2-3 revolutions every time i hit the key, then immediately drops like the battery is dead but theres 12.5v
dhvaughn-
no, hasnt started since new heads
i can check fuel pressure, and i will but it was fine before parked, i believe around 40psi?
will check spark
as far as a cel, the truck is a 94 with a 96 motor and trans and the plug for the data bus deal was never added. i have one that i am going to wire in so i can tell but havent gotten to it yet.
it cranks very nice maybe 2-3 revolutions every time i hit the key, then immediately drops like the battery is dead but theres 12.5v
havent tried with no plugs.
spark is good at the coil, not completely convinced its good after the distributor, hard to see the tester.
fuel pressure is around 30-35psi while cranking
noid light confirms injectors have pulse.
and the ckps is fine, not broken, not crimped wires.
likewise with the cam position sensor, lookes good, no crimped wires.
commence with solutions...
lol, thanks guys
spark is good at the coil, not completely convinced its good after the distributor, hard to see the tester.
fuel pressure is around 30-35psi while cranking
noid light confirms injectors have pulse.
and the ckps is fine, not broken, not crimped wires.
likewise with the cam position sensor, lookes good, no crimped wires.
commence with solutions...
lol, thanks guys







