The nit I am picking is, what do you consider timing. Only a function of whatever is spit out by the PCM, which would presuppose that the timing chain also has nothing to do with timing, or the position of the rotor in relation to the cylinder the PCM thinks its on.

I'm seeing timing as a function of the whole instead of the intervals that the coil is told to fire.

 

But, it wouldn't run.........

 

Well spark advance isn't fixed all the time.

 

I use the term "fixed" in the sense that it isn't something that you can just change some weights, or move the distributor, to adjust it. (yes, I remember those days....... springs too.... ) Advance curves are all in the programming. If ya wanna chance ignition advance (and have the engine actually run...) ya gotta do it with programming. Or, at the cam..... Or, move the crank sensor.... and event then, you are just changing base timing, won't affect the curve at all.

I have been curious how advancing the came 4 degrees would affect everything else.... as fuel atomization is kinda dependent on where the intake valve is, when the injector fires.......

In any event, we are WAY off topic here.... and have been for some time. If you wanna continue this discussion, just blast me off a PM.

Sorry 'bout that OP......

 

HeyYou,

I've got to ask does your username have anything to do with the song Hey You by Pink Floyd or purely coincidence?

I've got it stuck in my head and couldn't resist asking.

 

got set up for plugs wires cap rotor this weekend. guy doesnt want to get involved w/ plenum or manifold gaskets so I guess they will wait till winter when I can pull into garage and attemp that myself.

 

I have heard of this check valve... and no I have not done a search for it on here... but what would that do.

Trans was rebuilt about 50k or so ago. I pull an enclosed trailer daily weighing in around 4-5k up and down hills

I look for newer trucks but prices for something around 2002 are to high to pay cash. Have refused to take loans for anything. Being in the lawn service bus. i'm always afraid of a dry winter so I enjoy not ever having to worry about the repo man.
but im thinking if I can keep her happy till spring then maybe I can sadly trade her for somthing newer

 

Check valve is in the trans cooler line going to the bottom fitting on the radiator, follow the line back from the radiator and it turns to a soft line, at the end of that, is another metal fitting, and then a flare nut that screws into it. that metal fitting is the check valve. It likes to get plugged up, and then you get NO flow. and your transmission slowly burns itself up.