Header Leak, need some reviews.
#1
Header Leak, need some reviews.
I have a 5.2 318 that has a bad header leak. I have shorty headers and I need some reviews on any gaskets and locking bolts you guys have used.
How are the copper or aluminum gaskets, and what type of locking bolts would you guys recommend.
Also what is the thread size for header bolts.
Thanks in advance for any useful information.
How are the copper or aluminum gaskets, and what type of locking bolts would you guys recommend.
Also what is the thread size for header bolts.
Thanks in advance for any useful information.
#4
#5
Use the Felpro gaskets and Wurth exhaust paste. Smear some of that exhaust paste on the gasket (header side, down into those grooves) and tighten them up.
I have found the real trick is to retorque the gaskets:
Retorque after the first 15-20min drive. Give the engine plenty of time to cool.
Retorque after the first full day of use.
Retorque at the end of first week.
Retorque after the end of first month.
Check torque every six months.
I know that sounds like over kill, but it works. Make sure you retorque the collector flanges as well, a leak there can sound like a blown header gasket as well.
I really like the ARP 12 point header bolts. Small 3/8" head, I can get a long box end wrench on each one with my Gibson headers to get plenty of leverage, and they won't rust or snap because they are a higher tensile strength than grade 8 hardware and stainless steel. 3/4" under head length was plenty long for the 3/8" header flange and the gasket.
I have found the real trick is to retorque the gaskets:
Retorque after the first 15-20min drive. Give the engine plenty of time to cool.
Retorque after the first full day of use.
Retorque at the end of first week.
Retorque after the end of first month.
Check torque every six months.
I know that sounds like over kill, but it works. Make sure you retorque the collector flanges as well, a leak there can sound like a blown header gasket as well.
I really like the ARP 12 point header bolts. Small 3/8" head, I can get a long box end wrench on each one with my Gibson headers to get plenty of leverage, and they won't rust or snap because they are a higher tensile strength than grade 8 hardware and stainless steel. 3/4" under head length was plenty long for the 3/8" header flange and the gasket.
Last edited by aim4squirrels; 10-09-2011 at 10:31 PM.
#7
+1 on the 12 point bolts. I used 5/16 bolts so I can get a smaller wrench in there!
I bought the edelbrock gaskets from autozone (had to order them) and they were 25 bucks. The gaskets that came with my JBAs were flimsy. THe edelbrocks are thick. I had edelbrock headers, and they never leaked. So I used the same gaskets and they don't leak. A while back, I had a BAD leak after install with flimsy gaskets. Edelbrock gaskets for 25 bucks helped. But some of the other gaskets should work. Just make sure they are a bit beefy.
Make sure you don't torque them down TOO much, otherwise you will compress the gasklet too much and you cill CAUSE a leak. Just make them snug, don;t do a "chinup" on it.
I bought the edelbrock gaskets from autozone (had to order them) and they were 25 bucks. The gaskets that came with my JBAs were flimsy. THe edelbrocks are thick. I had edelbrock headers, and they never leaked. So I used the same gaskets and they don't leak. A while back, I had a BAD leak after install with flimsy gaskets. Edelbrock gaskets for 25 bucks helped. But some of the other gaskets should work. Just make sure they are a bit beefy.
Make sure you don't torque them down TOO much, otherwise you will compress the gasklet too much and you cill CAUSE a leak. Just make them snug, don;t do a "chinup" on it.