'01 1500 5.9 will not start when warm
Trans won't prevent the engine from starting. (a bad P/N switch will prevent the starter motor from turning though.) Isn't the cam sensor code lumped in with the crank sensor as well?
What are you missing when it won't start? Spark, or injector pulse?
What are you missing when it won't start? Spark, or injector pulse?
"Isn't the cam sensor code lumped in with the crank sensor as well?"
I think so. If I have my codes right, it's "P1391 Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP"
"I am doing the pick up coil next but I don't see how this would prevent it from starting once everything was warmed up".
Electronics are notoriously for acting up under different temperature conditions. My crank sensor was fine during the summer months, and went to crap every fall. A friend's Camry had a cam sensor problem that was totally temperature-related.
"I have read in several places about the camshaft sensor for the truck and I did originally have a camshaft sensor code but no auto part supplier list a camshaft sensor for my truck".
You mentioned replacing the "pickup coil". That is the cam position sensor by another name.
Sorry it wasn't the crank sensor, but in my defense, I have a sneaking suspicion you might have replaced it without testing it first. If you did, I'd be interested in what readings you got. At least now you have a spare.
After you replace the pickup coil/cam sensor/CMP, please let us know if that was it.
I think so. If I have my codes right, it's "P1391 Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP"
"I am doing the pick up coil next but I don't see how this would prevent it from starting once everything was warmed up".
Electronics are notoriously for acting up under different temperature conditions. My crank sensor was fine during the summer months, and went to crap every fall. A friend's Camry had a cam sensor problem that was totally temperature-related.
"I have read in several places about the camshaft sensor for the truck and I did originally have a camshaft sensor code but no auto part supplier list a camshaft sensor for my truck".
You mentioned replacing the "pickup coil". That is the cam position sensor by another name.
Sorry it wasn't the crank sensor, but in my defense, I have a sneaking suspicion you might have replaced it without testing it first. If you did, I'd be interested in what readings you got. At least now you have a spare.
After you replace the pickup coil/cam sensor/CMP, please let us know if that was it.
Cam sensor (pick up coil) seems to have fixed it, truck is starting regularily now. : ) I still have a rough idle, going to check that timing is still ok and maybe the charge air and MAP sensors.
Couple of things:
The timing can't be adjusted; the PCM (computer) does that. That said, I can get my engine to run like crap if I move the distributor, so maybe you can smooth yours out by doing the same. Nothing fancy; mark it before you move it, then see if you can get it to run any better just by ear. If not, put it back to where it started.
Wouldn't hurt to replace the sensors you mentioned. The Dodge ignition system is known to be excellent, but it obviously requires good input from all of the sensors.
Lastly, the "P" word - plenum. If you're not familiar with the "plenum problem", it is now your task to read the "sticky" at the top of every page about the problem with the plenum plate gasket at the bottom of the intake manifold (aka "kegger"). If yours is really bad then your engine won't run right no matter what else you do.
A leaking gasket causes all kinds of problems - driveability, clogged cat, even cracked heads.
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OK, really lastly, make sure your spark plug wires are correctly routed according to this TSB (Technical Service Bulletin):
TSB 18-48-98
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/18-48-98/18-48-98-v8.htm
It says it's for [1994 - 1999 (BR/BE) Ram Truck], but I'm guessing it's not addressed to your year of truck because they started routing them the new way at the factory after '99. In ten tears, someone might have routed them incorrectly; best to check it. See if there are clips on the upper row of valve cover bolts that aren't being used; that's where some of the wires are supposed to go.
Last edited by John D in CT; Oct 16, 2011 at 02:00 PM.
I agree. Operative word here is "should." If not, it wprobably wouldn't hurt to do it now I would think.
I am having the same problem with a 1998 5.9L Laramie. Did you ever figure this one out? How do i find the codes, mine won't start hot but runs perfectly cold and hot until I shut it off, stop for gas etc, then it won't start again. Next day it fires up like a new truck. Very annoying stuff, replaced everything as above, same situation?







