Engine swap, any concerns?
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Amateur
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 26
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From: Minnesota
its a good thing that you are staying with the 5.2, so you should keep your original PCM in the truck.
if the 5.2 is from a different year, you might have sensor or EGR differences on the intake manifold. particularly 1 vs 2 temp sensors on the front. the easiest solution is to swap your original intake over to the new engine, AND put on a hughes belly pan plate.
also consider putting on a new timing chain, front seal, water pump, and water pump bypass hose while the engine is out. if take about 10 minutes while the engine is out, or hours and hours later when its in.
also consider a new rear main seal. its a 2 piece that installs in the rear main cap. also consider a new oil pump.
inspect the freeze plugs. some last forever and others seem to rot out prematurely. O'reillys has a Sealed Power brass kit for about $12. they might have to order it. most are 1-5/8, a few are 1-1/4. heads are 1-1/4.
be very careful with the crank position sensor and its attached pigtail wire. its in a stupid position thats unsupported and very each to pinch the wire. if you pull engine only its probably best to remove the damn thing before the swap.
are you going to pull the trans with the engine or separate them? i'd think it would be easier to remove the grill and pull them both at once.
if the 5.2 is from a different year, you might have sensor or EGR differences on the intake manifold. particularly 1 vs 2 temp sensors on the front. the easiest solution is to swap your original intake over to the new engine, AND put on a hughes belly pan plate.
also consider putting on a new timing chain, front seal, water pump, and water pump bypass hose while the engine is out. if take about 10 minutes while the engine is out, or hours and hours later when its in.
also consider a new rear main seal. its a 2 piece that installs in the rear main cap. also consider a new oil pump.
inspect the freeze plugs. some last forever and others seem to rot out prematurely. O'reillys has a Sealed Power brass kit for about $12. they might have to order it. most are 1-5/8, a few are 1-1/4. heads are 1-1/4.
be very careful with the crank position sensor and its attached pigtail wire. its in a stupid position thats unsupported and very each to pinch the wire. if you pull engine only its probably best to remove the damn thing before the swap.
are you going to pull the trans with the engine or separate them? i'd think it would be easier to remove the grill and pull them both at once.
Thanks for pointing out the additional items. I'll be using my old intake and the plenum is upgraded. New oil pump, bypass hose because I destroyed it and the water pump is 6 months old, new main seals as well. I would like to pull just the engine, everthing is unbolted, I just can't seem to get the trans to let go. I must be missing something, it's to dark anyway so back at it tomorrow.
Thanks
Dan
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Clayton MI
Starter is off? I think there are six bolts holding the trans to the engine. Also need to get the bolts for the flexplate to torque converter. (pulling the torque converter with the engine is a drag. Getting the extra length to clear everything is not fun.) Don't forget to support the front of the trans..... 
T/C likes to leap off if you don't.
T/C likes to leap off if you don't.
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Amateur
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Minnesota
I'm pretty sure I removed every bolt 4 on converter and 6 trans bolts, but I'll double check. I also have the trans supported with a jack. One thing the manual says is not to use the intake to remove the engine, why not, I've seen it done with no problems. I have an extra intake I can use with a mounting plate, why wouldn't that work?
Hall Of Fame
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Gainesville, Ga.
maybe because the intake is aluminum it might be prone to crack under too much load or stress? timing cover is also aluminum
can you get the hoist chain down to the exhaust manifold bolts on the heads?
can you get the hoist chain down to the exhaust manifold bolts on the heads?
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Amateur
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Minnesota
I'm sure I can, I'm just concerned the chain will put pressure on the valve covers and denting them. Thanks to everyone for all the advice.
Captain
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 573
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From: Nebraska
I just swapped my 5.9 for another 5.9 and mine slid right out after I unbolted the trans and everything. And I had the engine hoist attached to the intake and nothing happened. You'd imagine it would just come out then.
Legend
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Fredericksburg, Virginia
We got it back in and lined up with the transmission on the first attempt, only for BJ who was under the truck to say "wait..., we gotta pull the motor back out. What! Why? We forgot the flywheel"
2nd go wasn't too bad either.
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Amateur
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Minnesota
After a little finagling I got the motor out and the new one in. I decided to heli-coil the bottom 2 trans bell housing bolts cause one was stripped, everything went back together pretty good, I'm pleased. Tomorrow I'll finish up and then some brake work. I used a lift plate attached to the intake, it worked great. Thanks to all for the pointers much appreciated.
Later
Dan
Later
Dan