Miss, bog, hard start.
I've been lurking for a couple weeks but it's time to start asking for help. I just picked up a 95 5.2 5speed 211k on the clock. No real history from the PO. new plugs & wires. 39 psi at the fuel rail. starts perfect cold. fuel pressure wavers for a minute before it evens out at 39. After it's warm and I shut it off I have to crank the motor and goose the gas like a carbed rig to get her running. fuel pressure doesn't bleed off. I've gave her the seafoam treatment and now working through a tank of lucas injector cleaner. It misses at steady part throttle and if i mash the skinny pedal there is no can of whoopass. If I ease the clutch out it bogs like a vacuum leak which I haven't been able to find yet. The oil level is holding steady but it has only been about 200 miles under my ownership. The plenum plate is stock but doesn't look really wet. I cleaned the tb and iac. Before I spend the cash on a double roller and aluminum plenum plate. I want to make sure I don't need to be looking more at the fuel system. I can rebuild injectors and drop the fuel tank for whatever may need done. I'd prefer to put my dollars in the right place. Thanks in advance, Joe
It may be that your cat.conv. is plugged. Is it the original exhaust...I had to replace mine at 180k miles. just a thought... Also it probably wouldn't hurt to give it a light tune-up...plugs, wires, oil change, air filter, just to be on the safe side. especially not knowing when the last time these items were changed. hope this helps
crum
crum
My apology as to new plugs and wires...already done..also it may be the 02 sensors giving false readings..I know they aren't cheap. If you can get a code reader on it that would help also. that would eliminate alot of guess work.
+1 on possible clogged cat.
Pull TB and take a good look at plenum plate. Use flashlight and confirm original plate with magnet. Aluminum plate can be found on ebay for $49.
Fuel pressue is about middle of the range, so that should be good. You can download FSM in the FAQ/DIY section and test TPS and a few other things to make sure they are good - or if they need replacing.
Pull TB and take a good look at plenum plate. Use flashlight and confirm original plate with magnet. Aluminum plate can be found on ebay for $49.
Fuel pressue is about middle of the range, so that should be good. You can download FSM in the FAQ/DIY section and test TPS and a few other things to make sure they are good - or if they need replacing.
See if you're getting a strong and consistent spark at the end of all of the plug wires. If some sparks are weaker than others, suspect the crank sensor.
That fuel pressure is a little borderline too; 49 PSI is optimal, and the consnsus seems to be that low 40's is "OK". A fluctuating 39 might not be so good. But see what you're getting for spark; you want nice, big, strong fat sparks at the end of each wire. If you don't have an adjustable spark tester, use a screwdriver and do your best not to get zapped.
And with that mileage, I think you have to do a compression test to see what you're working with.
That fuel pressure is a little borderline too; 49 PSI is optimal, and the consnsus seems to be that low 40's is "OK". A fluctuating 39 might not be so good. But see what you're getting for spark; you want nice, big, strong fat sparks at the end of each wire. If you don't have an adjustable spark tester, use a screwdriver and do your best not to get zapped.
And with that mileage, I think you have to do a compression test to see what you're working with.
Last edited by John D in CT; Oct 23, 2011 at 11:53 PM.
Replaced cap and rotor which was badly needed. Runs better but still stumbles at warm start Pulled out the o2 sensor and it bogged worse. It bogs right off idle loader no load. I'll check the tps and report back.
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Could be ECT= engine coolant temp sensor. You can also test that from the info in a Haynes or the FSM. And when you removed/unscrewed the o2 did you leave it plugged in to the electrical connector?
Left it plugged in so the computer probably thought it was running real lean. Oops. Maybe I'll try that again. I have masked the problems by disconnecting the root of all evil aka the egr. So there is either a lean condition that I'm looking at or something faulty with egr system. Good news and bad. I'd prefer to fix the issue instead of masking the symptoms. Keep the ideas rolling and thanks again for all the replies. I'll have this thing fixed in no time with all your help. Joe. Also, after unplugging the egr it fires up first time warm
Last edited by jodaddy; Oct 24, 2011 at 05:46 PM.
I think you have to make sure you are getting a big, fat, strong, steady spark at the end of each plug wire. You can't just put in a new cap, rotor, plugs and wires and call it good.
Engines don't really ask for much, but one thing they need is a proper spark. Pretty basic element of what makes them go. Add some fuel and some air, and you've really got something.
I think a lot of stalling problems would be diagnosed a whole lot quicker if this test was near or at the top of the list.
Engines don't really ask for much, but one thing they need is a proper spark. Pretty basic element of what makes them go. Add some fuel and some air, and you've really got something.
I think a lot of stalling problems would be diagnosed a whole lot quicker if this test was near or at the top of the list.



