Suspension lift vs. body lift
When I went to 35's from 33's, I still had 4.10's in. It sucked. It had plenty of power to get up and go, but would kick out of OD at the slightest hill or even head wind. I would not recommend anything less then 4.56 if you want to run 35's.
With 35s you wouldn't need more that 4.56, the 4.10s those models come with should be ok. When I had the 4.56's put in mine it made a big difference (I had the 3.55s). It does not kick out of over drive going up inclines anymore. I would replace the gears only if you are having problems. You should have the trac-loc in there already. A great upgrade to that diff which requires only basic tools and no tear down would be the powertrax no-slip. That is one of the greatest upgrades you can do. It complements both the off road and the pavement. just my opinion
whats the difference between that after market powertrax and the factory trac-loc? if i can only afford one, should i put it in the front axle which i believe is open?
have you done one to your truck? ive not been a big fan, but its the cheapest route to go
BL's actually redistribute the weight better then a suspension lift because it keeps the frame and drivetrain (the heaviest componenets) lower to the ground, which translates to a better center of gravity then a truck with a comparable suspension only lift.
Would you like to ellaborate on what "stuff" goes bad that doesn't need to?
A bodylift keeps the weight and center of gravity lower which makes the truck handle better and more stable at higher speeds in turns or even when tipped on angles . Also being that it doesnt change intended angles of suspension components and stress them, they wear normal, last longer and dont "go bad" as often. you also get a factory ride... Suspension and body lifts both have strengths and weaknesses for different purposes.
EDIT* I just read Silvers post above and it seems I'm not the only one understands the facts differently...
Last edited by Augiedoggy; Nov 12, 2011 at 12:14 AM.




