Oil Change Tip
Legend
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 8
From: Central Oklahoma
I find the "dry time" argument to be an old wives' tale because the bearings and other internals have a thin film of oil that's not going to disappear when the pan is drained and cause damage. There's being **** and then there's being ridiculous -- which IMHO, filling the filter falls in the the latter category.
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,437
Likes: 4,218
From: Clayton MI
I find the "dry time" argument to be an old wives' tale because the bearings and other internals have a thin film of oil that's not going to disappear when the pan is drained and cause damage. There's being **** and then there's being ridiculous -- which IMHO, filling the filter falls in the the latter category.
Legend
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 8,663
Likes: 8
From: Central Oklahoma
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87,437
Likes: 4,218
From: Clayton MI
When starting an engine, the lubrication process involves filling all oil galleys, filling the filter,......
And that's on just a cold start, not accounting for an EMPTY oil filter. A fair few filters have check valves in them, to prevent oil drainback when the engine isn't running. Its a logical extension that anything you put in there, is going to reduce the amount of zero oil pressure time at startup after an oil change. On some vehicles, you really can't do much about it, simply because of the angle the filter is mounted at.
And that's on just a cold start, not accounting for an EMPTY oil filter. A fair few filters have check valves in them, to prevent oil drainback when the engine isn't running. Its a logical extension that anything you put in there, is going to reduce the amount of zero oil pressure time at startup after an oil change. On some vehicles, you really can't do much about it, simply because of the angle the filter is mounted at.
Grand Champion
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 6,099
Likes: 6
From: Colorado
Though there is certainly nothing wrong with adding oil to the filter, I agree with VW on this one. It is unnecessary and the risk of damage happening because you don't do it is basically non existent IMO.
Thread Starter
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Retired Moderator - RIP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 18,729
Likes: 17
From: NH
Not to mention, the study in the link HeyYou provided looks like it was done in 1985. Oil has come a long way since then, and without doing any searching or having any proof, I'd say the cold start wear issue has been reduced somewhat since then.
Anyway, it would be nice if this was a sticky, just for the draining all the old oil out part of it.
Anyway, it would be nice if this was a sticky, just for the draining all the old oil out part of it.
Champion
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 3,891
Likes: 8
From: NorCal
I know I've said this is other threads in the past, but, as you can tell by looking. The motor leans back and the oil plug is on the front of the pan. (another great design) Since most people raise the front for access (2wd) Which does not allow all the oil to drain out. When I change oil I always raise the rear. Well today it's cold, (garage door is open) and I wasn't going to bother. Let me say, I'm glad I did raise it. Because a considerable amount came out after doing so. (might be more of a factor with a 4wd that has a leveling or lift kit).
My procedure may be ****, but this is what I do.
Warm the motor up for a few minutes.
Raise the rear up.
Remove plug and let it drain for a couple hours. I wait until it's barely dripping. Clean pan surface ,the plug and reinstall.
Next remove oil filter, (after I'm done cleaning all the oil off my hand,arm and sleeve)
I wipe down the mating surface on the block. Put a little clean oil on the gasket and reinstall filter.
Then put 5qt's oil in. Start it for a minute or two. Shut it down and wait a few minutes and check level and add as needed. Mine take's about 5 1/2 qts.
I know everyone has a way they do it, and I'm just pointing out the fact that I think raising the rear is rather important, if you want to get as much of the old stuff out as possible.
Hope this helps someone.
My procedure may be ****, but this is what I do.
Warm the motor up for a few minutes.
Raise the rear up.
Remove plug and let it drain for a couple hours. I wait until it's barely dripping. Clean pan surface ,the plug and reinstall.
Next remove oil filter, (after I'm done cleaning all the oil off my hand,arm and sleeve)
I wipe down the mating surface on the block. Put a little clean oil on the gasket and reinstall filter.Then put 5qt's oil in. Start it for a minute or two. Shut it down and wait a few minutes and check level and add as needed. Mine take's about 5 1/2 qts.
I know everyone has a way they do it, and I'm just pointing out the fact that I think raising the rear is rather important, if you want to get as much of the old stuff out as possible.
Hope this helps someone.
It's a dream to be able to take Zman and QFT him!!
2**20 (2 raised to the 20th) lol on making this a sticky. But, zman you must add anything else worthy to the OP as a tip too. Thereby compiling a rationale set of Oil Change Tips.
Jiffy Lube.....sheesh!!!
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Retired Moderator - RIP
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 18,729
Likes: 17
From: NH
Hahaha, Since I am the OP, I will add, don't run the dog or kids over when doing an oil change.
