In the winter, if you run a 180* thermostat, you will get an engine code that means "Running too cold too long." I have that problem. I clear the codes at the end of the winter, and It does not come back until the temp gets below 30 degrees.

However, if you are running an E-fan, you can program that to never start until 180* and it would help your problem. Hence why an E-fan and magnaflow y pipe cat system are my next modifications. Won't be doing them until next winter probably.

 

I am not parroting anything. I have been using the Hughes plate kit for a while now and it has held the seal just fine so far. You may be 100% correct in your assessment of the problem and the solution. The thing is I would have no way of knowing since I went with the kit. It would be irresponsible of me to make recommendations on something other than what I have experience with.

 

I honestly didnt mean that to suggest any one statement or person but more a common pratice that happens on these forums all too often.And since I saw you had already used the Hughes kit (In your Signature) I wasnt referring to you In any case... I see your point I was just trying to make mine understood so the op could make more educated decision based on his take on it.

 

not always...I have a 180 stat (almost 3 years now) and myself have never had any codes or noticed gas mileage change and I'm in buffalo where its plenty cold enough in the winter...

 

If you are right, it would sure be a less expensive fix. One of us non lazy types should maybe start a poll or something to see how many have had success with your method and how long it's been in service.

 

It was not that much for me to spend a bit extra to get the plate. The intake bolts, new plenum bolts and gaskets that came with the kit probably covered 60 bucks of the 140 I spent on the whole thing. An extra 80 bucks for complete peace of mind that it is rock solid was good enough for me.

Knocking someone for buying the plate kit is like knocking someone who spends 100 bucks on good plug wires and plugs when cheapo wires and plugs will last just as long.

It is all about performance and being an "upgrade." That is what this forum seems to gravitate to. However, if you can get power/reliability/performance on the CHEAP, of course we like to know that as well

FWIW, the hughes bolts probably do not need to be shorter, the aluminum plate is much thicker than the steel plate. At least double.

When I changed the plate on my 2001, the steel plate was so clean you coult literally eat off it. Not even residue!! I attest that to religious oil changes with mobil 1 synthetic and never using additives like "engine restore." That stuff makes timing chains look like burnt toast and gives that gritty burnt look to all metal parts (like valvesprings). I bought a can of engine restore, and there was a bunch of gritty sediment in it. If you don't shake the can, it settles, so as you pour it this MUD comes out at the end. Basically that sediment fills in scratches in the cylinders and bakes in permanent to help restore compression. The downside is that it also coats and bakes on everything else in the engine.

 

I don't put the hughes kit in my sig because it is not really a modification. It doesn't add any power. But 99.9% of the people with the SCT have the hughes kit installed and a 180* thermostat.
Here are other things I have that are not in my sig because they are not really MODS by definition:
1. aftermarket wires.
2. cloth air filter
3. derale deep tranny pan with cooling tubes.
4. tranny temp and wideband AF gauges.
5. circulating engine block heater.
6. cross drilled and slotted rotors(Maybe that is a mod, but it is just brakes)
7. Chrome Brushguard with chrome nerf bars
not to mention my 180* thermostat which is not really a mod.

Don't let the sig fool you.

 

I had a 1996 before I got this 2001. It always ran a bit on the hot side, even when i lived in Ft Drum NY. This 2001 i don't think ever got over 180 even before the thermostat (Never been in Ft Drum with it). I only saw 200-210 in Arkansas when it was 112 degrees out and i had the AC cranked.

The cooling system has been working "too well" in my truck. But I can;t complain because overheating is not an issue anymore. With my 2006, I was moving from Ft Sill oklahoma to Monterey california (end of june), and i had to drive the truck from 5AM to 10 AM to beat the heat through the southwest!!! I was caught on the highway in the desert of arizona at 11AM and I had to turn off the AC in 100 degree weather. Not fun!

Do you have a 5.2 or 5.9?

 

I've done the math, reported on it relatively long ago right here in this forum. Dissimilar metals are NOT the problem.

We don't see regular complaints of transmission pan gaskets being thrashed, despite them being sandwiched between aluminum cases and steel pans. Sure, they don't see quite as much pressure differential across them but the difference just isn't that great. You can pull more vacuum with your mouth -- whip out your vacuum gauge and give it a suck. I promise it won't... oh, wait, this is a family friendly forum.

If/when my plenum gasket lets go I'm going to buy a high quality gasket and some shorter bolts. If it proves me wrong I'll be sure to jump in here and admit to it.

 

you may be able to pull more vac with your mouth, but that is due to different breathing mechanics.

You can actually pull more vac in your mouth than your vac cleaner can pull. But your vac cleaner can pull more volume. Don;t believe me? Try sucking 5 gallons of water through a shop vac hose and compare that to the shop vac doing the sucking. Guarantee the shop vac sucks the 5 gallons faster than you can.