Bought it in July 2008 with 42K. Now it has 55.5K. At this rate the truck will be 20 years old before I get 100K on it.

When will AGE of the truck surpass the mileage? The truck is rust free (California truck, immaculate) and I got the ziebart "whole shebang" package to combat any rust. So rust will not be a problem and can be ignored somewhat (I also plan to bring it in once per year for the ziebart touch up).

What else can fail due to age? Here is what I do:
Change oil every 3-4 months or 3K miles. In the 13K miles I put on the truck, i have changed the oil ten times. Yes, i know, it is borderline OCD. I have changed the tranny fluid and filter (It was changed by the PO at 30K and I changed it at 50K). I changed the diff fluid (Front and back) at 50K likes, PO had it changed at 30K.

Here are things that have been replaced under warranty since I owned the vehicle in 2008:
1. Power steering pump
2. Transfer case (Cracked for some reason, I never take iot offroad. Probably temperature related).
3. Rear posi unit

Right now, nothing is wrong with the engine. What would stop me from driving this truck until 200K miles short of an accident?

I am thinking electrical (wiring) and the fuel pump. Any show stoppers?

The truck only took me 2 years to pay off, and since it is paid for, it is saving me a car payment. I would like to still have this truck on the road in 2021. By that time, this forum will have 7 of us old guys and about 300 16-17 year olds who got a dump for their birthday and can't start it

 

Electrical is not a problem unless you have insulation exposed to sunlight. It's not quite new enough to attract rabbits. Fogeddaboudit.

Age? IDGAF about age. Get a Transfer Case Saver (so you don't blow out another transfer case), save your nickels for when the transmission pukes, and be happy. Prepare for a cracked dash, a crap trackbar, and a blown plenum gasket.

2021? I'll still be going strong and laughing at your Fitch Fuel Crapalyst. Maintain the thing and be happy.

 

My transfer case cracked on the top of the case. The saver would not have helped that. But I have been meaning to get one. Once the warranty goes in another 5 years, i will do that.

ANd my crapalyst is surely not worth the money I spent, I admit that, but i can run 89 octane on hemifever's 93 octane tune without pinging...not sure why, but I never got pinging with the 93 tune on 89 octane. Also, I have gotten gas from the most no name places out there and I never got symptoms of bad gas like I used to.

I have the plenum plate installed. ANd my dash is cracked. I will be fixing that in the spring. Trac bar is holding up well. But, now that you mention it, the rubber bushings will probably need to be replaced all over my truck in a few years. They are pretty dry rotted.

I guess bushings are another thing.

It is not like this is a 1969 camaro with hardly any electronics to go haywire.

 

I'd have to agree with Unreg, only if you have really hot summers that would cause the wire's to get brittle, I really wouldn't worry about anything else. I guess longevity is dependent on the quality of the parts, i.e. cracked dash and what not. It's kind of like painting the Golden Gate Bridge, once you finish painting on one end, you got to start on the other end. Now I'm just ranting...

 

But if you had one today you'd be crawling from bumper to bumper and fender to fender to get it right again. (So would I, but it wouldn't be a chebbie.)

A small block from the late 60's went around 100,000 miles and was done for. These days we're pissed if we don't get at least 2.5x that out of a V-8. Most relatively modern V-8 powered automobiles go to the junkyard with still-functioning factory installed electronics hanging on. That's a trade I'll take!

Okay, the biggest difference is that our injectors shut down when we turn off the key so we're not sucking fuel on that last dying gasp every time we switch the beast off. Still, it's a benefit I'll take without hesitation.

Overall, I wouldn't worry too much about getting 200,000 out of one of these old trucks once the transmission and plenum gasket are taken care of. One of my neighbors picked up a '96 that was given to him (zarro books!) at 80,000 and has nursed another 100k out of it with just a bypass hose and regular maintenance and drives it every day. Factory transmission and all.

 

If you take care of it, which by all indications you do, 200K won't be a problem. Most of the vehicles I have seen retired due to age, was because of where I live...... road salt does a number on sheetmetal, even WITH undercoating and such. When things like the frame rust out, it just becomes financially irresponsible to repair it.

 

I have to ask about the plastic moulding that goes on the side of the vehicle, parallel to the ground (To prevent shopping cart dents...I think). Is it BAD to have them on a winter truck? SOmeone told me that when water freezes between the moulding and the body/paint, it creates cracks in the paint that get to the metal and causes rust bubbling. I had that on my 1996. So I was thinking i should take it off when i move to Ney York State in June.

You ever heard of that?

 

The way they are held on now, adhesive...... is actually pretty good. So long as it was applied correctly at the factory, and there aren't any air bubbles in there, shouldn't be a problem. I think the biggest problem I have seen with rust in any vehicle, rust-proofed or not.... was the drain holes get plugged up, so the moisture has nowhere to go, and just kinda 'sits' there. With freezing/thawing that is common in winter months, it gives it the chance to work it's way under the coating, and rust starts.

Making sure all your seals and such are up to snuff, and actually doing their job...... and that drain holes in various body panels (doors, rockers, etc.) are clear, will prevent 99% of those issues. That is something I would like to think that ziebart would address when you brought it in for its yearly checkup.....

Leave the body moldings in place. They really aren't hurting anything. Although, some folks like the look of the de-badged truck...... There was a thread on that a while back, with some pics, and yeah, I rather liked the 'clean' look. If my doors/rockers didn't have huge rust holes in 'em, I would even consider doing it to my truck.

 

I'd say the biggest problem is it will become more obsolete... like my 1984 corvette... its made of galvanized steel aluminum and GPC (form of fiberglass/plastic) so its holding up just fine but because styling and performance has changed soo much in the last 27 years there are 4 cylinder compacts out there that could outperform it and most 6 cylinders out power it these days...(stock hp was 205 on an 84 crossfire 350)..pitiful
Our rams were never great of things like gas mileage / when they were new.... as every year passes it kills the appeal of these trucks with newer better performing more efficient models.... but thats when other factors come into play like how much does one really drive it and Is it paid for vs truck payment and how inconvenient are the breakdowns.... and of course one could hope the value will go back up when they have some collector appeal and are a rarity on the road...but thats gonna be a long wait. Of course here in new york you wont have to worry about that because even with proper care and washing ...if you actually drive it in the winter the salt will find a way to eat it...damn rust.... thats why I like plastic cars

 

Even the vettes had problems with rust. Frame, cowl supports, windshield frame, etc.