Heater Core Installation
#11
12-23-2011, 08:43 AM
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The only issue I have w/ this, would be the soft lines inside the truck, more chance of leaking. Also, and we can discuss both sides of this, but the soft hoses will need to be changed more often than hard lines, so this way would mean more times throughout the life of the truck changing heater hose, not wanting to go in there anymore than I have to at the moment.
It is nice for quick fix and to re-sell maybe, but wouldn't do this on my own vehicle that I don't plan on getting rid of anytime soon.
thanks for sharing..
It is nice for quick fix and to re-sell maybe, but wouldn't do this on my own vehicle that I don't plan on getting rid of anytime soon.
thanks for sharing..
I just posted this in another thread but.......
I did the AC and Heater separately about 3 years apart. On the heater core I cut the metal lines back on the core and ran in 2 heater lines. This way you do not have to get the metal lines by the firewall, it also makes it alot easier to change later if you have to.
On the second install the dash completely cracked apart.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I dont really see why you need the metal line going past the firewall if you run soft lines in you only have to pull the dash back a little ways, slide the core out and hook up the hoses.
I did the AC and Heater separately about 3 years apart. On the heater core I cut the metal lines back on the core and ran in 2 heater lines. This way you do not have to get the metal lines by the firewall, it also makes it alot easier to change later if you have to.
On the second install the dash completely cracked apart.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I dont really see why you need the metal line going past the firewall if you run soft lines in you only have to pull the dash back a little ways, slide the core out and hook up the hoses.
#12
12-23-2011, 09:59 AM
I just posted this in another thread but.......
I did the AC and Heater separately about 3 years apart. On the heater core I cut the metal lines back on the core and ran in 2 heater lines. This way you do not have to get the metal lines by the firewall, it also makes it alot easier to change later if you have to.
On the second install the dash completely cracked apart.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I dont really see why you need the metal line going past the firewall if you run soft lines in you only have to pull the dash back a little ways, slide the core out and hook up the hoses.
I did the AC and Heater separately about 3 years apart. On the heater core I cut the metal lines back on the core and ran in 2 heater lines. This way you do not have to get the metal lines by the firewall, it also makes it alot easier to change later if you have to.
On the second install the dash completely cracked apart.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
I dont really see why you need the metal line going past the firewall if you run soft lines in you only have to pull the dash back a little ways, slide the core out and hook up the hoses.
#13
12-23-2011, 11:13 AM
I just posted this in another thread but.......
I did the AC and Heater separately about 3 years apart. On the heater core I cut the metal lines back on the core and ran in 2 heater lines. This way you do not have to get the metal lines by the firewall, it also makes it alot easier to change later if you have to.
On the second install the dash completely cracked apart.
I dont really see why you need the metal line going past the firewall if you run soft lines in you only have to pull the dash back a little ways, slide the core out and hook up the hoses.
I did the AC and Heater separately about 3 years apart. On the heater core I cut the metal lines back on the core and ran in 2 heater lines. This way you do not have to get the metal lines by the firewall, it also makes it alot easier to change later if you have to.
On the second install the dash completely cracked apart.
I dont really see why you need the metal line going past the firewall if you run soft lines in you only have to pull the dash back a little ways, slide the core out and hook up the hoses.
#14
12-23-2011, 06:23 PM
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well I got the complete dash out in about 1.5 hours today. Heater core is definately leaking. I was using a dash mat to cover the multiple cracks, and looks like I'm going to have to find another dash now. I'm hitting the JY tomm, they have about 15 rams, 94-97 there and dashes are only $20, so hopefully I'll get lucky.
Will try and get the heater core out, new in, and also change the water pump tomm. afternoon, if not I'll finish on xmas day.
Will try and get the heater core out, new in, and also change the water pump tomm. afternoon, if not I'll finish on xmas day.
Last edited by soloflite; 12-23-2011 at 06:27 PM.
#15
12-23-2011, 07:41 PM
Professional
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Hayward CA
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#17
12-23-2011, 08:24 PM
#18
12-23-2011, 08:38 PM
#19
12-23-2011, 08:57 PM
You're better off getting an aftermarket cover that glues to the old one,do you have an extended cab or a standard cab?All the ones that I've seen cracked were always in an extended cab truck.I replaced my dash in my 2001 with one from a 2001 standard cab.The one I got didn't have one crack in it and it sat for 3 years before I got the truck for parts.A month after I put it in my extended cab it started cracking.I think the extended cab flexes more causing the problem.
#20
12-23-2011, 10:16 PM
You're better off getting an aftermarket cover that glues to the old one,do you have an extended cab or a standard cab?All the ones that I've seen cracked were always in an extended cab truck.I replaced my dash in my 2001 with one from a 2001 standard cab.The one I got didn't have one crack in it and it sat for 3 years before I got the truck for parts.A month after I put it in my extended cab it started cracking.I think the extended cab flexes more causing the problem.
I wouldn't waste $20 on a junkyard dash. All you're doing is buying the same worthless POS you just removed.