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Heater Core Installation

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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 10:40 AM
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Default Heater Core Installation

Looking at the FSM, looks like the whole dash has to come out and the A/C evacuated to change the heater core.

Is there a tip/trick to not have to do either of these things, or am I looking at an all day job?

thanks for you input..
 
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 10:44 AM
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Read this:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...d-how-tos-143/

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ater-core.html
 
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by soloflite
Looking at the FSM, looks like the whole dash has to come out and the A/C evacuated to change the heater core.

Is there a tip/trick to not have to do either of these things, or am I looking at an all day job?

thanks for you input..
Figure it is going to be a weekend project.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 05:07 PM
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There's also this way of doing it, which I don't recommend. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...tructions.html
 
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by zman17
There's also this way of doing it, which I don't recommend. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...tructions.html
This way is vary easy. I did it and it took about 3 hours with tacking pictures.
See post #10.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 09:09 PM
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Thanks all, should tackle this week..!!! Cheers.. Will try the cut method..
 
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by zman17
There's also this way of doing it, which I don't recommend. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...tructions.html
Just curious as to why you wouldn't recommend? Is just a PITA to get the new back in? I will admit that the new core I just bought does allow the pipes to swivel 360 degrees as to fit in the box it was packaged in, not sure if that'll make it easy or not, but just a thought?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 11:14 PM
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I just posted this in another thread but.......

I did the AC and Heater separately about 3 years apart. On the heater core I cut the metal lines back on the core and ran in 2 heater lines. This way you do not have to get the metal lines by the firewall, it also makes it alot easier to change later if you have to.

On the second install the dash completely cracked apart.



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I dont really see why you need the metal line going past the firewall if you run soft lines in you only have to pull the dash back a little ways, slide the core out and hook up the hoses.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by soloflite
Just curious as to why you wouldn't recommend? Is just a PITA to get the new back in? I will admit that the new core I just bought does allow the pipes to swivel 360 degrees as to fit in the box it was packaged in, not sure if that'll make it easy or not, but just a thought?


Because I would also replace the evap core.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by zman17
Because I would also replace the evap core.
Good idea, but on a budget and at $100 dollars for the core and about $80 to evac and re-charge it, just can't afford it, and A/C works great.. this would be a nice to have, not a mandatory now. Time is no worry to me, I love working on my vehicles, so if I have to go back in later to replace it, I will.

I've had the dash out a few times to replace due the cheap A$$ plastic cracking, so not worried about that, just not wanting to evac and re-charge the AC due to the budget.

Thanks for the input..
 
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