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Low end knock question

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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 01:33 PM
  #41  
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While gathering parts to replace the oil pump, possibly rod bearings, etc. I came across a decent deal on a complete 5.9 motor/harness/ECM. I'm thinking about fixing the 3.9 and buying the 5.9 to drop in sometime soon. The 5.9 is a 98 model, my truck is an 01. Is it feasible to drop in the 98 as long as the ECM/harness/etc is a 98 as well...or is there something else that will recognize the difference?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 01:40 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Tparkin
While gathering parts to replace the oil pump, possibly rod bearings, etc. I came across a decent deal on a complete 5.9 motor/harness/ECM. I'm thinking about fixing the 3.9 and buying the 5.9 to drop in sometime soon. The 5.9 is a 98 model, my truck is an 01. Is it feasible to drop in the 98 as long as the ECM/harness/etc is a 98 as well...or is there something else that will recognize the difference?
I don't think there are many differences in wiring/pcm etc, between 98, and 01. But, if you use the stuff to run the engine off the 98, I should think it would work just fine. Keep in mind, the 5.9 will make short work of your trans that you have in there now........
 
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 03:23 PM
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trans, schmanz....what's another $1000 anyway

I'm actually trying to contact the DMV to see if the old engine is going to give me vin# issues when it comes to inspection time. I'm getting conflicting stories when I ask local mechanics and dealers. That might be a deal breaker.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Tparkin
trans, schmanz....what's another $1000 anyway

I'm actually trying to contact the DMV to see if the old engine is going to give me vin# issues when it comes to inspection time. I'm getting conflicting stories when I ask local mechanics and dealers. That might be a deal breaker.
Its my understanding that if you put a newer motor in it, than what it came with, the powers-that-be are pretty friendly with it. That's michigan though..... You would always see what it takes to get an assembled vehicle title.... then it just doesn't matter. And your truck would become a 2012 model.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Its my understanding that if you put a newer motor in it, than what it came with, the powers-that-be are pretty friendly with it.
I beleive thats how it is here in Ohio also.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 12:01 PM
  #46  
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I was able to find an '01 360 w/ harness & ECM for it. Still waiting to get a call back from DMV to confirm that I won't have any issue. In the meantime...

I have dropped the oil pan in my quest to find the mystery noise/knock/tick that I've been hearing. I removed the rear crank main bearing cap to get to the rear main seal. I noticed that the oil pump shaft has a little up and down movement that makes a tick as you push/pull on it. Is that amount of play normal? I'd say it moves 3/16" or so but it makes a ticky noise much like what I've been hearing. Has anyone else ever noticed if they had up/down movement in the shaft?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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so....I found that the rod for cyl #4 had more side to side play than the others...that was before and after new bearings. I'm not sure how much side movement is normal but it moves probably twice as much as all of the others(about 1/16"). If i shake the rod back and forth it will actually click a little. Is that a definite sign of crank wear or is it just a machining tolerance that is supposed to be there. Again, I'm assuming this is my problem area but don't have anything to compare it to other than the other rods.

I replaced all of the rod bearings and the oil pump...cleaned the screen and tube and reinstalled everything hoping, maybe, the new bearings would fix it. Now...I have zero oil pressure...at all. I did prime the pump. Can anyone chime in on whether that slop should exist at the rod (between the journal) before I tear this damn thing apart again. If I knew it was definitely a bad crank I would just wait to drop in the V8.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 07:19 PM
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There's a spec for side play in the FSM for the rods. If you can move it with your fingers.... that's too much. (I think the spec is just a couple thousandths.......)

How long did you wait for oil pressure to come up? You DID fill it back up with oil, right?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 07:25 PM
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I don't have anything to gauge the movement but I can assure you it is more than what the spec in the FSM shows (.006-.014") I just don't know if its worth tearing back down to figure the oil pressure thing out with the apparent crank issue. I would be fixing oil pressure and potentially still have a motor issue.

Um....yes, I promise I filled it with oil first. I started it a few times and let it idle for a minute or two each time...the last time I let it run for several minutes and the pressure never moved off of zero. It did sound like my old Powerstroke Diesel though...so, that was kinda cool.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2012 | 07:46 PM
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I think at this point, I would just replace the motor. That one may end up need crank, rods, and more...... end up spending more rebuilding than you would on a long block..... Then you would KNOW all the parts were right, what you had, and..... a warranty.......
 
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