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Cam change in progress w/pics.

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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 07:51 PM
  #51  
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Your just not yanking it right...
 

Last edited by merc225hp; Jan 10, 2012 at 08:06 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 07:55 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by merc225hp
Your just not yanking it rite...
That just sounds sooooo wrong.........
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Yeah, but, how are you going to GET That experience, unless you do it? Catch 22.

Rebuilding a motor can be complicated..... and a lot of it is simply technique, which you develop, and improve, over time. The first engine I built, ran for about two weeks, at which point, it froze, and blew the block into little bitty pieces. (I TOLD my dad to put the friggin anti-freeze in there........ oh well.) Since then, I lost count of how many...... Having the SPACE is one of the biggest challenges. It's gotta be clean, organized, and large enough that you can do what ya gotta. Doing cam bearings on the engine stand/bench is simple. (with the right tools) Doing it in the truck is more fun, and requires far more care. I could rarely afford to pay machine shops to do much of the work on mine, and even when I WASN'T paying for it, I actually ENJOYED doing as much as I possibly could. (made for a nice excuse to buy tools too...... wish I still had them all.....) Ok, I will stop rambling now.....

Do you have something else to drive while the truck is down? How many miles on the short block? May not hurt to just yank it, and re-ring it while its out???

 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 09:16 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by merc225hp
Your just not yanking it right...
You got that right boss....in this instance.

It's out now....... lol

Originally Posted by HeyYou
That just sounds sooooo wrong.........
POV relative!
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 09:37 PM
  #55  
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if your going or have already yanked the motor. Why not go to 408. you can honestly do it alot cheaper then those kits. Get a cast crank for around 300 bucks, and if you get stock bore forged pistons for around 400(go with forged b/c they require a slightly larger bore then cast). Just keep the stock rods, as they are forged.
as long as your not trying to make 500hp or something crazy like that, you'll be fine.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by mstephen89
if your going or have already yanked the motor. Why not go to 408. you can honestly do it alot cheaper then those kits. Get a cast crank for around 300 bucks, and if you get stock bore forged pistons for around 400(go with forged b/c they require a slightly larger bore then cast). Just keep the stock rods, as they are forged.
as long as your not trying to make 500hp or something crazy like that, you'll be fine.
If you don't bore it .030 over, you get a 402 instead.. relatively easy.. I just learned that.. I thought I'd share..
 
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Old Jan 10, 2012 | 10:24 PM
  #57  
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yea my bad...I am thinking very seriously about stroking my engine in this fashion.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 01:39 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by mstephen89
if your going or have already yanked the motor. Why not go to 408. you can honestly do it alot cheaper then those kits. Get a cast crank for around 300 bucks, and if you get stock bore forged pistons for around 400(go with forged b/c they require a slightly larger bore then cast). Just keep the stock rods, as they are forged.
as long as your not trying to make 500hp or something crazy like that, you'll be fine.
I decided with the research I did regarding my cam bearing condition to press forward with the new camshaft install. This is with my case alone as every cam bearing condition will vary. There are several failure mechanisms for bearings. My engineering background took me on an evaluation of risk. There is very little to no risk to the new camshaft. Moreover, the condition of the bearings, save the nicks I put in (which mind you is unavoidable), is not known how long they have been there. The main thing is that there was no cracking or voids all the way to the steel backing.

ps. if the engine was pulled, all the cam bearings would be replaced.

So the engine pull was not done and not going to happen until the next motor is built to swap in. What will it be...not really any specifics right now. More importantly I'll be taking my time to work that plan out, especially since I'll have this cams swap and other assorted mods to experience and weigh in.
 

Last edited by Wh1t3NuKle; Jan 11, 2012 at 01:49 AM.
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Old Jan 11, 2012 | 01:48 AM
  #59  
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Default Progress 1-10-12

Got this much done:


My setup outside




1. New Crane Cam Boss installed
2. Distriubuter aligned
3. Cam aligned
4. Tensioner installed

Clickable Thumbnails














 
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 02:17 AM
  #60  
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1. Mopar Double Roller Timing Chain Installed.
2. Used original thrust plate. Chain was so tight could not use the Mopar Tensioner.
3. Had to remove the timing key from old camshaft and put into the new crane. Apparently not all new cams come with keys. Then had to reduce the size of the key for fitment.
4. Lifters, lifter retainers, spider cage, pushrods, rocker arms installed.
5. Broke a rocker arm bolt from over torquing. Retrieved easily and getting new bolts all the way around.







 
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