it was a 250 four wheel drive. the 6 liter threw a rod so the customer got a kit from fordcummins.com.end price was the same as replacing the 6 liter. the truck is back to adjust the shift points so i will try to get some footage. with the amount of ford 6 liters we work on and the problems they have sure to see more of these kits poping up. i went to a training course on the new ford diesels, what a nightmare engine,two water pumps two rads.

 

So where the helllll should I start find a truck to buy?

 

Friends, farmers old work trucks, junkyard wrecked pickups, hell they're everywhere. You can get a whole pickup for nearly the same price as buying the motor and transmission separately. You just want something with all or at least most of the salvageable parts you would need.

 

what about places like repodepo or kijiji

 

I've wanted to do this too. Looked into it and realized its much much easier and probably cheaper to just do a body swap. around here they use 4X4 2500 quad cabs for just about everything the county needs to do. city trucks are usually f150s though. Ive been trying to find time to get to an auction but havent gotten a chance to.

 

Here is my two cents as I've been researching the heck out of this recently. If I repeat something I apologize.

I think you should go with a 1994-1998.5 12v CTD. It's mechanical fuel system and cheaper/easier/better to work with for this. Further I agree that you are going to be better off with the NV4500HD 5-speed with an NP241D from either a 94-98.5? Diesel or a V10 truck. I have a 5.9 gasser 2500 but it has the NV4500LD and NP241 which have different input shafts and won't work on the diesel. I say that so you won't go find a V-8 2500 and think the drivetrain will work. If you get the 5-speed it's better to get a Dana 80 rear and Dana 60 rear but I know a guy who did a V-8 2500 swap and he left his rear Dana 60 for now and hasn't ruined it.

Allegedly the harness under the hood is the one you'll need to change. The one under the rest of the dash and stuff will SUPPOSEDLY work. The things you'll need to change are obviously the fuel tank (unless you feel like cleaning yours), fuel lines/system and the guage cluster in the dash.

But honestly, I haven't actually done the swap yet so I would encourage you to join the site linked to below and then look in the "Dodge '94-'98 2nd Gen 12v" and "Conversion" forums for your answers. The bottom link is one of many conversion stories but keep in mind that he STARTED with a 2500 4x4 so some of the things may be different for you.

Good luck, bro.

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...splay.php?f=90
http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...d.php?t=124902

 

Here is one from the same site but it's a 1500 4x4 swap to a CTD. I am actively looking for a donor truck and have found multiple trucks (2wd) that I could get for between $2500 and $4000 depending on condition. I personally am looking for one that has good doors and cab since my rusty POS is getting on my nerves...

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ad.php?t=59170

 

Oh, I meant D60 front and D80 rear if you go with a manual. D60 front and D70 rear for auto. That keeps driveshafts and yokes simple since those are the stock setups.

 

You would basically have to completely change the powertrain and drivetrain I.E. everything but the cab and frame.

 

I have a simular project, I am about to purchase either a totalled 98.5 or a 95 ram with either the 24 or 12 valve. being that i get the whole truck, it has everything except the body. I would like to do the 24valve, but would that create double the work?

All going into a 1990 250 4x4 with a 360 gas motor.

I have enough to purchase a totaled truck but cant really afford a new truck. At 7-8mpg what do i have to lose?