The older trucks didn't have the leak detection pump, so, the purge solenoid was mounted back there on the intake. My 96 is in the same spot.

 

OK, thanks for the info. Kinda thought that was the case. I guess I'll need to plumb it like my '01 setup when I do the swap, huh?

Here's a few progress pics...most of the way stripped down. Is there anything I can do when removing the distributor to avoid having to get the fuel sync set, in the end, or is that going to be a necessary evil? If I find TDC and then install the dist pointing at #1, will I be ok or is it tight tolerances by slight degrees that could throw it all way off?

 

I assume you are going to do various things like timing set, so, you are likely to need to have it reset in any event. You can get it pretty close when you put the motor together though, at least, close enough that it will run.

Use the sensors, and ALL the plumbing...... ooops..... originally a v-6 ...... For the evap system, yeah, use all the plumbing from that.

Also, the intake on the 8 is going to have provisions for two engine temp sensors. Your truck only wants one. So, plug the hole with a pipe plug. or, just leave the one wire sensor in there, and pretend it doesn't exist. (You only need the two wire sensor.)

 

Are you changeing the computer and wiring harness out on your truck also?
If not how do you plan to fire a V8 with computer and harness for V6?
Or did I miss that some where?

Dave

 

I got a 5.9 harness and an '01 PCM with the motor.

 

ok Guess i missed that.

Dave

 

Is it too late to change my mind about this project....?

I found a machine shop, somewhat nearby, that will clean the block...install freeze plugs...hone cylinders and install cam bearings for around $200. Seem like a decent deal or am I better served doing it myself?

 

Seems like a decent price to me.

 

took the block to the machine shop today...took the heads along just for kicks. They immediately found two cracks in one and one in the other...that was just at a quick glance. I didn't even notice them until they were pointed out. Looked like a tiny hair laying between the valves.

In other news, I managed to drop one of the pistons and broke the skirt tab off of one side. Is there any harm in replacing an OEM piston with an OEM piston or is it recommended to replace all or none? While I don't want the extra expense, I would rather not have issues later as a result of only replacing the broken one. I've seen some Sealed Power pistons that look comparable (as far as the valve recess goes)...

 

It's all about weight. You can replace just one, but, make sure it is within a few grams of all the rest. (closer the better.)