Stock should be fine. If I recall correctly, Marty at KRC used to tell folks if they were revving over 5500RPMs to go .025" longer. That seats the pushrod a bit deeper in the lifter bore to reduce the possibility of it popping out, but i believe the tighter valve train costs you a few HP.

kind of a trade off of safety vs speed. At any rate call comp cams and use their recommendation.

 

well i called Hughes and I ended up getting New Lifter, push rods (non harden), Roller Rocker, Double roller Timing chain, Valve covers and a complete gasket kit. I'd rather have a completely new vale train than having to worry or hope if everything will be ok later on. Over all ive spend a bit more than my original budget but I'd rather be safe.
Thank you guys for all of your valuable 2 penies and dimes! Im super excited to complete my top end and hear that loby idle!! I will keep you posted with pics and vids
Next project after this will be getting a new block and stroking it to a 427! All i would have to do than is to just transfer my top end to the new short block!

 

How aggressive a cam are you putting in? Is this your first cam change? Some applications require forged rods, but that is based on what you are building, and how you are going to drive it.

If it were me, I would consult with cam mfg and head mfg and make sure everything syncs. They should provide good advice regarding rods. They do not want it to blow up either.