Getting Heads and Cam!!!!
#1
Getting Heads and Cam!!!!
ok ok! so I'll be getting some Heads (CLEARWATER EQ Monster Heads with up to .600 lift) and a Cam (CompCam custom grind: Duration @ .050 218/224
Lift .570/.565 with a 113 LSA) next week!!...but i have a few questions though..
Lift .570/.565 with a 113 LSA) next week!!...but i have a few questions though..
- BIG question, What kind of problems/wear downs/ key point should I look for when i start to take things apart??
- "ROUGHLY" How much of Hp/Tq should i expect the Beast to gain after wards with a dyno tune and 91/93 octane and keeping in mind the current mods that I have?
#2
Really hard to predict power numbers just from a parts list..... when you get it on the dyno for the tune though, you had BETTER post those charts.
Check your cam bearings. Replace your lifters (only 100 and some odd bucks). Also check the rockers, and pivot ***** for wear, both on the pivot, and at the valve end.
Check your cam bearings. Replace your lifters (only 100 and some odd bucks). Also check the rockers, and pivot ***** for wear, both on the pivot, and at the valve end.
#3
#4
50 hp, a little more torque, but moved way up in the power band. Good strip truck, not so sure about a DD.
Better call Clearwater and ask them to clearance the valve retainers/guides for that much lift. Let them know what you plan to run in it and let them prep the heads. Trust me, it'll be much better if they do it as they know the parts they're putting on the heads.
Not sure the stamped steel rockers can take that much lift. Better research it.
Better call Clearwater and ask them to clearance the valve retainers/guides for that much lift. Let them know what you plan to run in it and let them prep the heads. Trust me, it'll be much better if they do it as they know the parts they're putting on the heads.
Not sure the stamped steel rockers can take that much lift. Better research it.
Last edited by aim4squirrels; 02-13-2012 at 09:04 PM.
#5
50 hp, a little more torque, but moved way up in the power band. Good strip truck, not so sure about a DD.
Better call Clearwater and ask them to clearance the valve retainers/guides for that much lift. Let them know what you plan to run in it and let them prep the heads. Trust me, it'll be much better if they do it as they know the parts they're putting on the heads.
Not sure the stamped steel rockers can take that much lift. Better research it.
Better call Clearwater and ask them to clearance the valve retainers/guides for that much lift. Let them know what you plan to run in it and let them prep the heads. Trust me, it'll be much better if they do it as they know the parts they're putting on the heads.
Not sure the stamped steel rockers can take that much lift. Better research it.
Thanks guys, I will for sure check them cam bearing, hopfully they arnt too worn out.
#6
New cam = new lifters, 100% of the time.
With the change in lift over the stock unit, and any significant cam change anyway, new springs are usually in order. aim4squirrels gave good advice on calling Clearwater. Will save you time and grief in the end if they do it before they ship.
If you need new springs, then valve locks and retainers are probably warranted, along with valve stem seals. Might be all included with your heads.
The extra lift might change the rocker geometry enough that it needs to be addressed with new parts; eg rockers.
Pushrods are not particularly expensive, may as well go for nice stiff ones if you buy any. For a non-race engine with a high lift cam I personally would accept a little extra weight at the pushrod if it means increased stiffness.
Hey, but don't take our advice ... call your cam manufacturer, tell them what you're doing and with what cam and engine, and ask for advice for the rocker geometry, and springs, etc. Then call Clearwater and make it so.
With the change in lift over the stock unit, and any significant cam change anyway, new springs are usually in order. aim4squirrels gave good advice on calling Clearwater. Will save you time and grief in the end if they do it before they ship.
If you need new springs, then valve locks and retainers are probably warranted, along with valve stem seals. Might be all included with your heads.
The extra lift might change the rocker geometry enough that it needs to be addressed with new parts; eg rockers.
Pushrods are not particularly expensive, may as well go for nice stiff ones if you buy any. For a non-race engine with a high lift cam I personally would accept a little extra weight at the pushrod if it means increased stiffness.
Hey, but don't take our advice ... call your cam manufacturer, tell them what you're doing and with what cam and engine, and ask for advice for the rocker geometry, and springs, etc. Then call Clearwater and make it so.
Last edited by Johnny2Bad; 02-14-2012 at 08:30 AM.
#7
new cam = new lifters on a flat tappet cam. Roller lifters don't wear like flat tappets. You also don't have to rev a roller cam at 2000rpms for 20min like you do a flat tappet cam. You won't wipe a lobe off a roller cam.
You do not HAVE to replace them. If you choose not to, there may some tapping noise as the lifter and plunger will move different distances than they did with the stock cam. The lifters will go up and down in the bore at a higher rate of lift than before and the plunger in the lifter will undoubtedly sit at a different height than before. once a new groove wears in the lifter and the plunger settles in its new seat, the tapping will go away.
New lifters will clack like all get out for the first firing, but as soon as they fill with oil they will be quiet, unless your pushrod length is wrong. You definitely want adjustable roller rockers with that cam you're considering. Hardened pushrods is a very good idea, a must if you're going over 5000RPM often, but also good when the lobe profile gets more aggressive.
Were it my engine, I'd replace them. Just as a maintenance precaution. After I put it all back together, I have no desire to want to tear it apart for a deflated lifter.
You do not HAVE to replace them. If you choose not to, there may some tapping noise as the lifter and plunger will move different distances than they did with the stock cam. The lifters will go up and down in the bore at a higher rate of lift than before and the plunger in the lifter will undoubtedly sit at a different height than before. once a new groove wears in the lifter and the plunger settles in its new seat, the tapping will go away.
New lifters will clack like all get out for the first firing, but as soon as they fill with oil they will be quiet, unless your pushrod length is wrong. You definitely want adjustable roller rockers with that cam you're considering. Hardened pushrods is a very good idea, a must if you're going over 5000RPM often, but also good when the lobe profile gets more aggressive.
Were it my engine, I'd replace them. Just as a maintenance precaution. After I put it all back together, I have no desire to want to tear it apart for a deflated lifter.
Last edited by aim4squirrels; 02-14-2012 at 10:06 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
well, Clearwater told me to send them my cam specs when i order the heads and they will do all of the necessary adjustments since they do already come assembled. Now with rockers, I am thinking of getting Hardland Sharp's RR's keeping the stock ratio of 1.6. As aim4squirrels mentioned, I do want to replace them. And with Push rods, would the length of the new harden rods change or would they be the same length as stock? I'll call CompCam and Clearwater later today to verify.
Last edited by sinus19; 02-14-2012 at 10:27 AM.
#9