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water pump leak after install

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  #21  
Old 04-12-2019, 11:48 PM
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Originally Posted by ddbernier
Thanks both "HeyYou" and "MoparFantastic21". The truck has 180k on the engine. Since I'm going to replace the timing chain cover, the chain and gears make sense too.
Anytime
I did my chain at about the same miles, the factory chain was still tight but I did it because I was doing the plenum abs was already there lol.
 
  #22  
Old 04-13-2019, 08:34 AM
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Why are you replacing the cover?
 
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Old 04-13-2019, 11:34 AM
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I'm replacing the timing chain cover gasket. I guess I missed the word "gasket".
 
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Old 04-13-2019, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ddbernier
I'm replacing the timing chain cover gasket. I guess I missed the word "gasket".
Ok, that makes more sense.
 
  #25  
Old 04-24-2019, 06:14 PM
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The timing chain had a lot of play and needed to be replaced. I decided to replace the oil pan gasket while I was at it since it was leaking. I'm still working on the oil pan gasket. I bought a new fan clutch for the 5.9L engine, the distance from the fan to the water pump is shorter and now the fan is not in the shroud. When I brought it back to the store with the old fan clutch, they looked up the old fan clutch part number and said it came from the 4.7L engine and that I have the correct fan clutch for my truck. It seems that the shroud is not useful now. Should I replace the fan clutch with the 4.7L version?



New fan clutch for 5.9L, now the fan is not in the shroud.
 
  #26  
Old 04-24-2019, 07:11 PM
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If the one for the 4.7 is actually within the shroud, and the blades pull air thru it, yep, I'd go with that one.
 
  #27  
Old 05-23-2019, 06:45 PM
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Replacing the oil pan gasket was a project since the front differential had to be disconnected along with the left engine mount and front steering rack. Since the oil pan had seen some better days, I replaced the oil pan too. While I had it all apart I replaced the oil pump since I didn't want to deal with all the work getting to it. There was an exhaust leak on the right manifold from a broken flange, so I used a flange replacement kit to repair it. Everything is back together without water or oil leaks.

Before replacing the broken water pump, I replaced the intake metal plate with the Hughes Engines aluminum plate since we had a gasket leak where oil was getting into the intake. While I had the intake manifold off, I replaced all ignition wires, rotor cap, and rotor along with the injectors. I know lots of new parts, but the truck was in dire need of a tune-up.

When running, there is a leak in the exhaust at the pipe that comes from the left exhaust manifold to the y-pipe coming from the right exhaust manifold then going toward the catalytic converter (see picture). It smells like gas at the leak so it's running rich. Does the computer correct this over time? I cannot find an adjustment.


2002 Dodge Ram 1500, 5.9L front exhaust
 
  #28  
Old 05-23-2019, 08:11 PM
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Does it actually require a gasket there? Isn't there a 'ball' on the manifold, the y-pipe seals up to?

Are the O2 sensors still there? Hooked up?
 
  #29  
Old 05-23-2019, 09:40 PM
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Yes, there is a ball on the manifold pipe and no gasket. The picture is where the pipe from the left manifold meets the y-pipe passing under the transmission. The auto parts store gave me the gasket, but it seems like one of the graphite donut gaskets would have made more sense. When I took the pipes apart, there was gasket material between the pipes, but they were also crusted over with rust.

The O2 sensors are connected and there are no codes from my meter.

I am assuming that the computer controls the air/fuel mixture and since it was messed up from the intake problem, it is running rich now and dumping extra gas into the intake and not burning. Do you know if there is a factory reset or do I need to run it awhile for the computer to adjust the air/fuel mixture?
 
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ddbernier
Yes, there is a ball on the manifold pipe and no gasket. The picture is where the pipe from the left manifold meets the y-pipe passing under the transmission. The auto parts store gave me the gasket, but it seems like one of the graphite donut gaskets would have made more sense. When I took the pipes apart, there was gasket material between the pipes, but they were also crusted over with rust.

The O2 sensors are connected and there are no codes from my meter.

I am assuming that the computer controls the air/fuel mixture and since it was messed up from the intake problem, it is running rich now and dumping extra gas into the intake and not burning. Do you know if there is a factory reset or do I need to run it awhile for the computer to adjust the air/fuel mixture?
Should do it on its own. But you can turn the key on for 15 seconds before starting if sheet you disconnected the battery for a little bit
 


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