4wd Indicator Switch & Disengage Issues
97 Ram 1500 4x4
I'm new to this truck, and also new to the 4x4 world. And now I'm having a few 4wd issues-
1st- I believe its the 4x4 indicator switch wire (the one on the driver side of the actuator) that I cut off the other day. There are a few inches hanging off of the actuator so I could splice back into it, but I don't have a clue of where the other end plugs into. Can someone point me in the right direction?
2nd- 4wd doesn't like to disengage. The only way I've found so far was to unplug the air lines from the actuator. Would this mean the actuator needs to be replaced?
3rd- I moved the truck back and forth in my driveway just to see if the 4wd would work and it kind of felt like a front wheel was slipping. I don't really know of any other way to explain it. I've driven it quite a bit and it doesn't have any similar feel in 2 wheel drive.
Thanks in advance for any help or input that you can provide.
I'm new to this truck, and also new to the 4x4 world. And now I'm having a few 4wd issues-
1st- I believe its the 4x4 indicator switch wire (the one on the driver side of the actuator) that I cut off the other day. There are a few inches hanging off of the actuator so I could splice back into it, but I don't have a clue of where the other end plugs into. Can someone point me in the right direction?
2nd- 4wd doesn't like to disengage. The only way I've found so far was to unplug the air lines from the actuator. Would this mean the actuator needs to be replaced?
3rd- I moved the truck back and forth in my driveway just to see if the 4wd would work and it kind of felt like a front wheel was slipping. I don't really know of any other way to explain it. I've driven it quite a bit and it doesn't have any similar feel in 2 wheel drive.
Thanks in advance for any help or input that you can provide.
1. Should be a connector hanging off the frame, right by the frontmost crossmember. Looks like you can replace just that harness, from connector, to switch.
2. Need to verify that you are getting vacuum to the outboard port on the actuator in 2wd. The steel lines that run along the frame really like to rust out... and break.
3. Don't use 4wd on hard surfaces, what you are feeling is normal. What you are doing is putting the drivetrain into a bind situation...... things either slip, which is probably what you were feeling, or, they break..... which can get expensive.
2. Need to verify that you are getting vacuum to the outboard port on the actuator in 2wd. The steel lines that run along the frame really like to rust out... and break.
3. Don't use 4wd on hard surfaces, what you are feeling is normal. What you are doing is putting the drivetrain into a bind situation...... things either slip, which is probably what you were feeling, or, they break..... which can get expensive.
Read this, it will help you understand how the system works and how to check it's integrity.
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/..._engagment.htm
http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/repair/..._engagment.htm
^^^ after you read that, put it up on 4 jack stands. run the engine and test the system. notice that cad engage/disengage can be tested by whether the passenger side wheel either freewheels or engages to the drive line. when you turn off the engine, it will remain engaged or not.
don't trust the 4wd dash light until you prove it works properly. its just a contact switch that's touched by the shift fork. its prone to failure for a lot of reasons.
check vacuum in the 2 lines at the cad. if that's ok, remove the cad, operate the vacuum and see if the shift fork moves. with engine off also slide the collar by hand. that's all there is to it. figure out the piece(s) that don't work. when you remove the cad, spray the bolts with penetrating oil ahead of time and let soak. be prepared for broken bolts. they're small and break at very little torque - so be gentle and patient and use a LOT of penetrating oil and soak time. in fact - start spraying them now before you even read the rest of this.
no so obvious things to look for - the splines on the inner shaft and collar can get all burred up and be difficult or impossible to slide the collar back and forth.
after you become an expert on how it works and get tired of fixing it - get a posilok cable system. you'll love 2wd low range.
don't trust the 4wd dash light until you prove it works properly. its just a contact switch that's touched by the shift fork. its prone to failure for a lot of reasons.
check vacuum in the 2 lines at the cad. if that's ok, remove the cad, operate the vacuum and see if the shift fork moves. with engine off also slide the collar by hand. that's all there is to it. figure out the piece(s) that don't work. when you remove the cad, spray the bolts with penetrating oil ahead of time and let soak. be prepared for broken bolts. they're small and break at very little torque - so be gentle and patient and use a LOT of penetrating oil and soak time. in fact - start spraying them now before you even read the rest of this.
no so obvious things to look for - the splines on the inner shaft and collar can get all burred up and be difficult or impossible to slide the collar back and forth.
after you become an expert on how it works and get tired of fixing it - get a posilok cable system. you'll love 2wd low range.







