Is a wheel bearing easy to replace?
Somebody mentioned to replace the whole wheel hub, but I don't have 100 dollars to spend on that. I noticed a wheel bearing was 12 dollars. So I figured that'd be a cheaper route lol.
When I jacked my truck up, there wasn't much play, but there is a slight clicking noise when I move it side to side.
I'm going to be replacing my brakes tomorrow, so I don't know if it'll be best to do the bearing too, but I haven't done that before, so I'm not sure if there is any special tools needed.
To youtube!
When I jacked my truck up, there wasn't much play, but there is a slight clicking noise when I move it side to side.
I'm going to be replacing my brakes tomorrow, so I don't know if it'll be best to do the bearing too, but I haven't done that before, so I'm not sure if there is any special tools needed.
To youtube!
if you have a 4wd you have to replace the entire wheel hub assembly. no just replacing the bearing.. you need a 3/4drive for the lugs, 3/8 hex for brakes, 14mm for the 3 hub bolts and a 1-11/16th for the large center nut. if you have a 2wd someone that knows about them will be along shortly! also look online.. you can get timkin(good) for 72 bucks shipped at a few places... dont go cheap though!
I was just getting ready to post this lol. Mine been making noise off and on for almost 2 years, well now it sounds completely dry off to napa I go tomorrow. So everything just unbolted on a 4wd? Maybe this won't be so bad
depends on year. later models 2wd, probably 00-01 (i'm guessing) use a non-serviceable, hub/bearing assembly like the 4wd does. earlier models use a traditional tapered bearing.
remove the wheel and look at the spindle nut, and try to remove it. if its more or less finger tight, its a nice cheap tapered bearing that only costs $10 bucks or so. if its torqued to about 100-150 pounds, its a unit bearing.
also look on the back side of the knuckle. if there are 3 odd looking 12 point 14mm bolt heads holding the unit bearing in, then its like the 4wd.
remove the wheel and look at the spindle nut, and try to remove it. if its more or less finger tight, its a nice cheap tapered bearing that only costs $10 bucks or so. if its torqued to about 100-150 pounds, its a unit bearing.
also look on the back side of the knuckle. if there are 3 odd looking 12 point 14mm bolt heads holding the unit bearing in, then its like the 4wd.
depends on year. later models 2wd, probably 00-01 (i'm guessing) use a non-serviceable, hub/bearing assembly like the 4wd does. earlier models use a traditional tapered bearing.
remove the wheel and look at the spindle nut, and try to remove it. if its more or less finger tight, its a nice cheap tapered bearing that only costs $10 bucks or so. if its torqued to about 100-150 pounds, its a unit bearing.
also look on the back side of the knuckle. if there are 3 odd looking 12 point 14mm bolt heads holding the unit bearing in, then its like the 4wd.
remove the wheel and look at the spindle nut, and try to remove it. if its more or less finger tight, its a nice cheap tapered bearing that only costs $10 bucks or so. if its torqued to about 100-150 pounds, its a unit bearing.
also look on the back side of the knuckle. if there are 3 odd looking 12 point 14mm bolt heads holding the unit bearing in, then its like the 4wd.
God forbid anyone put the info about their truck in the sig and profile. Everyone want's help, but we all need to guess. LOL
I had the bearings on mine repacked. They were pretty much dry, but the mechanic I had do it for me showed the bearings and they were still perfect. I let him do the work because of my back problem, but I've repacked/replaced dozens on 2 wd pickups in the past and it is pretty simple.
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so the answer is YES.
If it's an older model, I would recommend replacing the bearings with the rotors, since new rotors require new bearings. Otherwise I suppose all you need is a hammer, chisel, and block of wood to replace your old bearings.



