Fronts are dead easy. Just do one side at a time.

Rears are a bit more complicated, but, same thing applies, just do one side at a time, so, if you get stuck, you can look at the other side to see what its supposed to look like.

Don't forget to adjust the rears when you are done.

 

brake tips and pics.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-pictures.html

allow plenty of time. rears are quite a job.
the brake tool lever for manhandling the heavy springs is worth $10. i did mine without it but wished i'd had one the whole time.

 

The 01 manual will not be of much help. Dodge changed things around too much through the years. You'd be better off with a Haynes in your situation.

 

Neither the Haynes NOR the FSM were very helpful when i had to rework my brakes...at least for the rear. Biggest problem was there were actuall parts missing whien I pulled drums. This was the least helpful section that I have discovered in the FSM so far, but still some help finding the missing parts.

 

ok, i got my wheel cylinders today and i had to order them from 2 different people because i ordered off ebay and they only had one. Any way, here's the pics, they both came in the same box,but they are different. Did wagner keep the same part # but change a lil bit or did someone send me the wrong part? Notice the boots are different locations and the whole to the piston is a different size. The one with the yellow cap looks like the part number picture so im assuming thats the right one..what do you think? heres a part number pic and the ones i got..
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...1324&ppt=C0066

 

Well that's strange..... So long as all the dimensions are the same, I would think they would work.......

 

The one with the boots inside, the metal body is actually wider. The hole in the middle of the boot where you see the piston is also smaller than the other one..

 

It's the piston diameter that is important. Although, in order to measure it, you need to pull one of the boots off the end..... if they are different diameters.... that may make for some interesting braking performance when the surface is slick.

 

well im assuming the one with the yellow cap is right because its identical to the pic right? That one the boots come off easy but the "internal boot" one isnt really coming out. Also you cant really tell in the pic but theres 2 grooves on either side of the bleeder thing and the yellow cap one has deep grooves and the other is only about half the depth..dont know if that matters or not

 

Internal dimensions are all that really matter. It's piston diameter that determines working pressure on the shoes. Granted, the difference is only going to be 1/16th of an inch or so, but, when applying that difference to the working pressures of rear brakes.... (600PSI and up....) it becomes noticeable. Trouble is, I have no clue how to get the boots out of the internal style cylinder.... and you would need some calipers to accurately measure the pistons.