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How to remove the fuel rail and injectors from truck?

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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 07:24 AM
  #31  
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if you do remove the pcv, replace it with a hose that turns down and dumps the vapors down at the bottom of the block. i think this was called a 'down draft tube'. the air passing under the car creates a slight low pressure suction on the tube. there'll be a little bit of dirty discharge.

like cpt said, whatever you do, don't plug up the crankcase where it can't breathe.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:35 AM
  #32  
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you can actually purchase a breather box with a filtering sponge in it and a drain so the oil either drains where you want it or back into the engine..(kinda like whats on the otherside but billet aluminum wand serviceable). I did this on my vw and it seems to work well.... of course if everything works as it should and the engine isnt too worn you should have any real issues once you replace the pvc valve....I got lucky and the one I got at autozone seems to be working fine...I just peeked into the intake last week when changing my injectors and It still seems as clean as when I cleaned it by pouring seafoam into it while the engine was running (slowly as not to stall the engine).

I didnt like the mess the downdraft tube would leave on the garage floor and driveway...
 

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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 10:37 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by johnnyjaws98
use the same intake bolts theres no high pressure tourque on those bolts not to reuse them
I wouldn't recommend this. The cost of the bolts are inexpensive (~$20) from Napa iirc. Most people break a bolt or 2 upon removal of the intake. Why chance a break on reuse and get a vac leak that would be a biznitch to track down???



Originally Posted by Ohio Mossy Oak
I thought the intake bolts are all "torque to yield"????..If so torquing it to the correct figure actually causes the bolt to permanently stretch a small amount, but maximizes sealing force. This type of bolt must never be re-used from what I have learned..
False. They are NOT TTY. They are fully threaded rather than having a SHANK, which would yield. You are correct on what TTY means and re-use, but these are not that kind.

I do wonder WHY Chrysler made these fully threaded even though they only thread into the block.... Such is Chrysler though....


I didn't read the whole thread but I presume the OPs question of injector removal was answered. lol
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 06:07 PM
  #34  
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YES my question was answered haha so i went to dealership and bought a $8.75 PCV valve. I took mine off and saw that there was oil in my tube that goes to intake and it dripped out when i held it upside down anddd if i blew a cpl times into the valve it would stick every once in a while. So what would you say my problem actually was because the PCV valve has only been on there for 20 miles or so but i will start it up every week and let it run for a little and it had oil all in it and the tube. Alsooooo i cant find any 2 1/4'' bolts?? they sell them at 2 and 2 and a half so should i go with 2'' and no washer? or 2 and a small washer. You guys have been a great help.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 06:15 PM
  #35  
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Go with the 2.5 and a washer. They just extend into empty space in the valley, (or, into open air....) so, better a tad too long, than a tad too short.....
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 06:55 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle
I wouldn't recommend this. The cost of the bolts are inexpensive (~$20) from Napa iirc. Most people break a bolt or 2 upon removal of the intake. Why chance a break on reuse and get a vac leak that would be a biznitch to track down???





False. They are NOT TTY. They are fully threaded rather than having a SHANK, which would yield. You are correct on what TTY means and re-use, but these are not that kind.

I do wonder WHY Chrysler made these fully threaded even though they only thread into the block.... Such is Chrysler though....


I didn't read the whole thread but I presume the OPs question of injector removal was answered. lol
I apologize,I thought I was helping..I dont want to misinform anyone..I was under the impression since the general thought seems to be to not re-use these bolts,that they might be TTY....The mr gasket bolts I looked at seemed to be TTY(shank).But the fel-pro are no shank..Any reason why?
 

Last edited by Ohio Mossy Oak; Apr 10, 2012 at 07:36 PM.
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 06:58 PM
  #37  
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ok thankya i didn't know if they stopped at the block. I also bought 1 bolt today i think it was 1/4''x18x3/4'' long for the valve covers and it threaded in a tightened up you don't see a problem with that do you?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 07:13 PM
  #38  
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Took a quick look-see in the 01 service manual..... there aren't any notes about replacing the intake manifold bolts at all..... 96 manual doesn't mention it either... There are TONS of threads debating just this issue out there on the web, quite frankly, I don't know....
 
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Old Apr 10, 2012 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Took a quick look-see in the 01 service manual..... there aren't any notes about replacing the intake manifold bolts at all..... 96 manual doesn't mention it either... There are TONS of threads debating just this issue out there on the web, quite frankly, I don't know....
I agree with you, I went through every manual and my M1 install sheet from Mopar and no were does it say to replace the bolts. So I have about 40 extra bolts here LOL. I would still change them out they are cheap to buy, I would be pissed to have installed a manifold only to break one old bolt and have to start over again.
 
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Old Apr 11, 2012 | 12:03 AM
  #40  
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Of the sections I've looked at in the FSM and the Haynes....I do not recall ever seeing anything remotely about "replacing" or "new" fasteners.

I'm going to guess that those of you that are ASE certified or taken some auto mechanics course, etc. would have been given what the "standard practices" are for fasteners (e.g., critical, non-critical, reuse, etc.).



Originally Posted by HeyYou
Took a quick look-see in the 01 service manual..... there aren't any notes about replacing the intake manifold bolts at all..... 96 manual doesn't mention it either... There are TONS of threads debating just this issue out there on the web, quite frankly, I don't know....
Originally Posted by merc225hp
I agree with you, I went through every manual and my M1 install sheet from Mopar and no were does it say to replace the bolts. So I have about 40 extra bolts here LOL. I would still change them out they are cheap to buy, I would be pissed to have installed a manifold only to break one old bolt and have to start over again.




Originally Posted by Wh1t3NuKle
I wouldn't recommend this. The cost of the bolts are inexpensive (~$20) from Napa iirc. Most people break a bolt or 2 upon removal of the intake. Why chance a break on reuse and get a vac leak that would be a biznitch to track down???
 
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