Fuel mileage is crap!
I don't know if you guys use ethanol or e85 up there. Here in Iowa, all pumps cheapest grade is the mid grade with ethanol blend. I use plain 87 octane & get nearly 24% better mileage with it. I would not put any kind of ethanol in my tank ever again because although it is cheaper at the pump, you will pay a lot more to go the same number of miles as you would on regular 87 octane. The difference in octane is 1 thing that makes ethanol burn off faster, but it also burns even faster because of it's thermal properties & lower boiling point. Ethanol is a giant rip off. I would also suspect a retuning with an aftermarket chip was done, then the chip removed before it was sold to you without the retune being removed.
Octane and thermal properties have nothing to do with mileage. The CHEMICAL properties of ethanol is where the mileage properties lie. Ethanol simply has less kJ of energy per volume than pure gasoline.
Also, ethanol has a MUCH higher heat of vaporization than gasoline (More than double). And Ethanol has over 3 times higher Stoichiometric air/fuel weight per % volume of fuel. Gasoline needs 2% fuel by volume to air to have a stiochiometric AF rating, while Ethanol needs a 6.5% fuel by volume of air to be stoichiometric.
You need to read scholarly articles rather than the wikipedia "kool-aid."
http://eerc.ra.utk.edu/etcfc/docs/altfueltable.pdf
http://www.academicjournals.org/JPTA...20al%20pdf.pdf
they actually make some of the highest quality parts out there... like 80% of all the parts in german cars are bosch... they make some of the best fuel injectors too... however like any massive company they have different divisions and some of the products like tankless water heaters that are sold with thier name on them arent very good...
the issue that causes the bosch sensors not to work well in our trucks is more of a pcm timing thing at Chryslers end ... they work great in other makes and model vehicles...
SMP manufactuers most of the other brands and many oem parts but I think the ones marketed under the NTK logo are made by someone else...
the issue that causes the bosch sensors not to work well in our trucks is more of a pcm timing thing at Chryslers end ... they work great in other makes and model vehicles...
SMP manufactuers most of the other brands and many oem parts but I think the ones marketed under the NTK logo are made by someone else...
Well here is what I've done so far
Replaced MAP Sensor with a new OEM($150 dealership 10% discount from friend)
Replaced Pre and post Catlytic coverter oxygen sensors with NTK($70 per sensor Auto Value/Parts Source) I made parts source price match after they wanted $150.00. They were shocked at auto value price for same sensor. Told them to start price checking their competitors.
Put in a new K & N Air Filter to the housing($60.00 Auto Value store)
Let's see what this does for fuel mileage, this should help out
As I replaced the air filter I found that 4 back tabs were broken off by pervious owner(idiot) and cracked a chip off the corner
I have twist tied the ends and duck taped where I can till I can replace this housing
Just shaking my head at the previous owner. It isn't rocket science to take this damn thing off the throttle body. He literally destroyed all the tabs at the back
Another thing I'm thinking of doing is cutting a bit of the intake end off that goes into the fender
I also noticed the air dam isn't on the bottom of the front bumper either.
Next thing is a cover for the box
Btw, I never knew disconnecting the Pre cat oxygen sensor could be such a PITA
Spent an hour fighting with it above the transmission
Replaced MAP Sensor with a new OEM($150 dealership 10% discount from friend)
Replaced Pre and post Catlytic coverter oxygen sensors with NTK($70 per sensor Auto Value/Parts Source) I made parts source price match after they wanted $150.00. They were shocked at auto value price for same sensor. Told them to start price checking their competitors.
Put in a new K & N Air Filter to the housing($60.00 Auto Value store)
Let's see what this does for fuel mileage, this should help out
As I replaced the air filter I found that 4 back tabs were broken off by pervious owner(idiot) and cracked a chip off the corner
I have twist tied the ends and duck taped where I can till I can replace this housing
Just shaking my head at the previous owner. It isn't rocket science to take this damn thing off the throttle body. He literally destroyed all the tabs at the back
Another thing I'm thinking of doing is cutting a bit of the intake end off that goes into the fender
I also noticed the air dam isn't on the bottom of the front bumper either.
Next thing is a cover for the box
Btw, I never knew disconnecting the Pre cat oxygen sensor could be such a PITA
Spent an hour fighting with it above the transmission
Last edited by Total_War; Apr 26, 2012 at 10:44 PM.
Btw I looked inside the throttle body, opened it up
Looks like a metal plenum down there, don't have a magnet to check
No oil and it was clean
I'm guessing a replaced is aluminum??? Metal will have magnet stick to it meaning OEM factory plenum?
Still searching threads to find this info, will find it soon enough
Looks like a metal plenum down there, don't have a magnet to check
No oil and it was clean
I'm guessing a replaced is aluminum??? Metal will have magnet stick to it meaning OEM factory plenum?
Still searching threads to find this info, will find it soon enough
Last edited by Total_War; Apr 26, 2012 at 10:57 PM.
Btw I looked inside the throttle body, opened it up
Looks like a metal plenum down there, don't have a magnet to check
No oil and it was clean
I'm guessing a replaced is aluminum??? Metal will have magnet stick to it meaning OEM factory plenum?
Still searching threads to find this info, will find it soon enough
Looks like a metal plenum down there, don't have a magnet to check
No oil and it was clean
I'm guessing a replaced is aluminum??? Metal will have magnet stick to it meaning OEM factory plenum?
Still searching threads to find this info, will find it soon enough
Aluminum is the after-market replacement. But it might have had the gasket replaced. No oil is good news. There is a Be All End All Plenum stciky at the top of the forum page.
Just an FYI as far as the O2 sensors: When you go to the dealership you are buying NTK sensors at a very high price. I hope that helps some folks out in their decision on where to buy them. The only difference is that at the dealership they come in a plastic Mopar bag and at the parts store or online they come in a box.
Just an FYI as far as the O2 sensors: When you go to the dealership you are buying NTK sensors at a very high price. I hope that helps some folks out in their decision on where to buy them. The only difference is that at the dealership they come in a plastic Mopar bag and at the parts store or online they come in a box.
Another FYI. Looking down the butterflies of the TB means nothing. Remove the TB. And with a small mirror and a light, look all around inside the intake. You can also try this test that I also think is useless. (Compared to actually looking). http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/09-05-00.htm
Last edited by zman17; Apr 27, 2012 at 12:00 PM.
Right now im trying to chase down an issue with my 5.2l.. I am getting 5MPG!... yes my 5.2l is in a durango and this thread is about the ram but, no matter how you look at it 5 MPG is pretty sh**ty!
First line of attack is to replace the o2 sensors.....
I get poor gas mileage my self. When I filler up the console shows 350 miles before tank is empty. I average between 9-11 mpg. When I refull my odometer reads a little over than 200 miles, I thought i was gona get 350 miles.




