Are you getting injector pulse?

 

Maybe pull a valve cover and see if valvetrain is moving?????

 

Noid light shows injector pulse is there. Tested two circuits. There is also moisture on the brand new plugs, so somethings coming out...

I thought about timing issues- valve train, but with starting fluid, the trucks sounds right for 30 seconds... That tells me the valves are moving.

The only things I can figure is that them computer is throwing off the timing of the injectors or more likely there is just a lot of water separated in the tank and I didn't get it all out when siphoned the gas...

Has anyone pulled the fuel line off the rail, turned it into a bucket and run the pump? How much fuel would come out... If I did this enough and it is water in the gas- I could purge it out of e tank...

Damn ethanol...

Todd

 

If valvetrain was not moving, some valves would still be open allowing starting fluid in. It is not highly likely....but something is definitely wrong.

Crank sensor maybe? Can you pull it out and look at the end of it? Make sure the end isn't worn off or metal filings covering it.

 

I would be real tempted to drop the tank, clean it out, get rid of ALL the bad gas. Flush the lines using the method you mentioned, remove the fuel rail, pull the injectors out of it, and blow it out with compressed air.....

The gas would have to be REALLY bad for your engine not to want to run at all though... partially clogged injectors maybe??

 

New crank sensor.

With ethanol fuels, moisture is becoming more common in fuels systems. Fuel separation is more common too. It may seem unlikely, but I feel like I am running out of Alternative failure modes.

Todd

 

As for the injectors... Sprayed carb cleaner in the rail end (screen) and set in a mix of gas and injector cleaner over night. Took them to work and threw thm in the ultrasonic parts cleaner...

Short of being new... I don't know what else I could do.

Todd

 

Did new crank sensor come from dealer? Someone here installed new crank sensor and pulled it back out after it didn't work. End was chewed off of it. It was aftermarket part and was actually longer than OEM sensor. Did you compare new one against the old one? Long shot - but may or may not tell something. Just guessing. The problem you are having is very strange.

 

Actually read that on here and it matched-new to old. It was backfiring thru the intake before I replaced the crank sensor.

Now I broke the Throttle Valve Cable connector to the TB... This sucks- anywhere I can get one besides dealer?

Todd

 

Sounds like you have done alot to correct your problem, I to had a bad problems with sensors, and the problem was the map sensor, it would start idle roughly then die, they are cheap and I would try it, Don't forget to clear the codes in the comp to, either by disconnecting the battery, or by the right method by your trucks manual. hope it helps