Should just be four bolts on the rear universal, and it should pop out of the yoke. (only on the diff side. leave the other side in the shaft.) Wrap tape around the u-joint so the caps don't get lost.

You can jack up the rear to make life a bit easier, (after breaking loose the bolts that hold the driveshaft in place....) but, be sure an block the front tires, so the truck doesn't decide to roll away.

+1 on the trans jack...... See if there isn't a tool rental joint around close by.

 

The REAL question: how MANY times did you replace the head gasket on that 7M?


+1 on the throwout bearing. It's pretty simple to drop the trans in these trucks. Iv'e done it twice... And the second time I never even jacked the truck hahaha. Starter does need to come out, it bolts to the bellhousing (you have one, it's just integrated into the trans case). Thankfully it's quick and simple. I would recommend jacking the front of the truck, so that the rear end can be used to anchor the truck (chock wheels AND set parking brake). If you have a wide load plate on your jack (not one of those compact floor jacks) you should be okay with just that for the jack. The NV3500 is a pretty light and compact transmission. Should be able to balance it pretty easily. Good luck!

 

Just do it soon....somebody I know had the clutch go out in his Yota....200 miles from home....in a hotel parking lot.....a real PITA it was.....

Keep the clutch and pressure plate clean. And I cannot remember buying a clutch over the last 15 years or so that did not have the alignment tool included. (whihc is why tehre are half a dozen in my tool box...)

Scotch the wheels and mark the diriveshaft and yoke before you drop it. Check U Joints also, beccause this would be the best time to change them if they are worn.

 

^^^ Yea I remember that clutch incident? Who was that again?

 

Something else I forgot to mention - you will need to either have the flywheel resurfaced or get one from the parts store. When i did the clutch on my trans am it was almost the same price just to buy one as to have it resurfaced. With the hydraulic clutch if you shave off too much you need to shim it or the air gap will be improper and it will have issues and I didn't want to chance it. I don't know if the trucks are the same or not. May want to consider new flywheel bolts and make sure the pp bolts are in good shape. Make sure to torque everything to the proper ft lb. Gudentight isn't good enough lol.

 

The master/slave hydraulics in our manual's are self adjusting, the difference in flywheel thickness shouldn't affect it.

 

If the only problem is the throw out bearing, there MAY not be wear on flywheel that requires resurfacing, but certainly need to check and verify.

And +1 on gudentight NOT being sufficient!

 

The flywheel usually doesn't have to be surfaced, I've replaced clutches many times without doing it and never had a problem. I just had the flywheel in my truck surfaced but only because I was having other engine machine work done at the same time and the freeze plug on the back of the block was pissing coolant all over it. Previously it was holding 440ish ft/lbs on a stock clutch no problem.

 

Replaced that headgasket precisely one time.. then I got rid off it

 

Well, the truck has been sitting in the driveway all this time.
Too busy to deal with it.

Just got a clutch kit today and will be bring the truck into garage (house garage, not mechanic )
Got this kit HERE

Because I have to drop the driveshafts, (there's 2) I'm going to put the truck up on all four corners.

I've been loathing this job for a month

But, it's time to get greasy and scrape some knuckles

I expect I'll be asking for more help as I go too.