GMC 3500 dually wheel cylinders.
just spin the adjusters till the shoes make light contact with the drums...should be a very light drag when trying to spin the drum, but not enough to make it difficult to spin the drum. once you get it to that point, its adjusted. if it will just free spin with zero resistance, its not adjusted close enough.
LOL
Tighten the adjusters while spinning by hand with the wheel on, until it is locked up. This will center the shoes inside the drum. Then back off a few turns until there is a slight resistance. Repeat procedure on opposite side.
just spin the adjusters till the shoes make light contact with the drums...should be a very light drag when trying to spin the drum, but not enough to make it difficult to spin the drum. once you get it to that point, its adjusted. if it will just free spin with zero resistance, its not adjusted close enough.
Tighten the adjusters while spinning by hand with the wheel on, until it is locked up. This will center the shoes inside the drum. Then back off a few turns until there is a slight resistance. Repeat procedure on opposite side.
That's we did it in the 1950's zman.
Well that's still how to do it.(On a Ram anyway) And backing up and hitting the brake pedal will help keep them adjusted.
Your pedal shouldn't really feel squishy. Is it possible you let the fluid get low and sucked some air in? If you check your manual, there is a procedure to bleed the master cylinder, or the RWAL module, up front. It is not too hard. Then, try this - I read it on an Amazon.com review and it works good: Put some clear tubing that fits tight on your bleeder. Route the tube UP, above the wheel and put your bleed bottle on a chair. Pump the brakes (watch your fluid level). You should see solid fluid in the tube. When content, tighten the bleed screw. Start with the RR, then do the LR. If I were you, then I would do the RF, then the LF. Keep the cap on when you pump or it may spray fluid out the reservoir.



