I don't follow the logic (or the math) here. How can turning higher RPM allow for higher mileage? I would think it would be the opposite.

 

Did you take into account that your speedo and odo are off after you changed to 4.10 gears?

 

That would depend on what year his truck is.... (which I note, truck info is noticeable by it's absence here....) 98 and newer trucks get their speedo reading from the rear wheel speed sensor, changing gears won't affect it, changing tire size will though.

 

While he may be runnin a higher rpm, he is staying in the bottom endd of the power band which allows him to keep a steady speed without much throttle input. I have experienced the same in my truck. I get better gas mileage towing the trailer with od off doing 65 mph at 2k rpm than i do without the trailer and od on at 70mph at 1400 rpm

 

This post certainly needs some clarification on my behalf...LOL
Posting on 2 hrs. sleep is not very productive

I have a much more responsive throtle at all speeds. RPM's for stop and go traffic are lower, and more steady. Certainly takes less effort/throtle to get up to speed from a stop. My low end grunt is just perfect IMO. Low-mid speeds, say to about 40-45mph or so, I beleive I've gained a tremendous amount of torque AND MPG's. I do about 55/45 split of hwy/city driving, so I'm unable to firm up city vs. highway MPG's...my MPG postings are combined, overall MPG's. Flat highway driving at typical hwy speeds is where the RPM's have increased, as I posted above. I think typically this is where the standard 3.55's shine, but everything else seems to suffer. So it seems as if the roles have reversed somewhat imo, I think I pay at those speeds now somewhat. Now MPG's are certainly not my only goal or motivation. Performance is sooo much better...at ALL speeds, throtle response, passing ability, the hunting or wonder that was so prevelant in stop and go traffic, hills, passing etc.. has seemed to all but vanish. An overall better behaved vehicle, which IMO leads to gains across the board.

I've been reading a TON of posts/threads on this and another site, searching and researching for info on how to best select modifications, upgrades, and repairs needed to make this Ram best serve my needs. I've noticed some repetative questioning concerning some upgrades/mods, and the R&P regearing seems to have it's share of them. So I'm trying to address some of these questions in my posts. If I can help or provide info to you, please do not hesitate to ask...'cause I'm gonna be asking away for help and advice!

I hope this may clear some things up...you know, clear as mud...LOL


Oh, BTW on another note, Friday evening, I exchanged a few PM's with Hemifever. After a few extremely fast replies/responses, I decided to order a canned SCT tuner. Friday evening, it's Monday today...guess what was in my door when I left for work . Hows that for fast!

 

Use the 3 grand and build a stronger lower end. I would also suggest that you replace the heads. Summit sells a set of Indy Race heads that flow nice.

I have a set of SLP headers that bolt up to the stock Y Pipe if needed, the only issue I have with them is two bolts on the passenger side, you have to grind the headers a little so the bolts have enough room to be installed correctly.

 

The heads are way more in need of rebuilding/upgrading than the bottom ends of these engines. They can handle some pretty tough abuse and hp/torque

 

Figured I should post a few photos.

R&P Gearing;











SCT Tuner;


Used Engine, Bought for Parts;






LongBlock, Ready to Be Prepped;
















As you can see, there is some surface rust forming on areas of the new engine...I need to get some better lighting and take better photos, but, if you guys could lead me down the right road to take care of this.

 

Squirt it with WD-40, or something similar until you are ready to install it. Rust on the outside isn't all that much of an issue. Rust on the inside can cause problems.

 

Just rub it down with some oil or wd-40 like mentioned and you will be fine.