Front Differential Leak
#11
08-08-2012, 02:53 PM
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http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-3.html
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-4.html
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-5.html
you'll wish it was pinion.
the good news is that an oil leak from the axle seals sort of stabilizes when it gets low. you still need to keep it checked, just don't fill it completely up.
the bad news is that when you do fill it up, it leaks out fast, not slow like a drippy pinion.
do this - find a way to measure the diff oil, and refill it to a level about 2 inches or so BELOW the fill hole. don't fill it all the way up. see if you can find a place where the leak will LEAK SLOW, instead of fast.
plan for an expensive repair. I ran mine with leaking seals for well over a year by keeing it about 2/3 full.
be aware - if oil can leak out, then water can leak in. DONT DRIVE THRU DEEP WATER unless you plan to drain/refill the diff.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-4.html
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-5.html
you'll wish it was pinion.
the good news is that an oil leak from the axle seals sort of stabilizes when it gets low. you still need to keep it checked, just don't fill it completely up.
the bad news is that when you do fill it up, it leaks out fast, not slow like a drippy pinion.
do this - find a way to measure the diff oil, and refill it to a level about 2 inches or so BELOW the fill hole. don't fill it all the way up. see if you can find a place where the leak will LEAK SLOW, instead of fast.
plan for an expensive repair. I ran mine with leaking seals for well over a year by keeing it about 2/3 full.
be aware - if oil can leak out, then water can leak in. DONT DRIVE THRU DEEP WATER unless you plan to drain/refill the diff.
#12
08-08-2012, 04:19 PM
yes gear oil smells like ****.
the front end is like a tar baby, and that's why i drove mine for a year with leaking seals. there are several very expensive components, and replacing any of them is like taking the whole damn truck apart. you got front hubs (bearings) at $185 each. axle u-joints at $25-30 each, and the stupid little $10 seals, and a couple of $5 bushings at the CAD.
i had to replace hub bearings and brakes as one event, and then i did the seals, axle u-joints, and cad bushing/bearings as a second event. that way i only had to take all the innards apart one time. removing the passenger side seal and inner axle was actually a blessing because i found the axles splines and cad collar to be all burr'ed up, which was why my cad engage was so difficult. a little file work to remove the burrs made a world of difference.
expect several hours of labor on seals, and consider axle u-joints if they are the least bit loose. i recommend Precision super strength or Spicer. don't get cheapo ones or you'll regret it.
welcome to the dodge money-pit.
the front end is like a tar baby, and that's why i drove mine for a year with leaking seals. there are several very expensive components, and replacing any of them is like taking the whole damn truck apart. you got front hubs (bearings) at $185 each. axle u-joints at $25-30 each, and the stupid little $10 seals, and a couple of $5 bushings at the CAD.
i had to replace hub bearings and brakes as one event, and then i did the seals, axle u-joints, and cad bushing/bearings as a second event. that way i only had to take all the innards apart one time. removing the passenger side seal and inner axle was actually a blessing because i found the axles splines and cad collar to be all burr'ed up, which was why my cad engage was so difficult. a little file work to remove the burrs made a world of difference.
expect several hours of labor on seals, and consider axle u-joints if they are the least bit loose. i recommend Precision super strength or Spicer. don't get cheapo ones or you'll regret it.
welcome to the dodge money-pit.
#14
08-08-2012, 05:34 PM
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yes gear oil smells like ****.
the front end is like a tar baby, and that's why i drove mine for a year with leaking seals. there are several very expensive components, and replacing any of them is like taking the whole damn truck apart. you got front hubs (bearings) at $185 each. axle u-joints at $25-30 each, and the stupid little $10 seals, and a couple of $5 bushings at the CAD.
i had to replace hub bearings and brakes as one event, and then i did the seals, axle u-joints, and cad bushing/bearings as a second event. that way i only had to take all the innards apart one time. removing the passenger side seal and inner axle was actually a blessing because i found the axles splines and cad collar to be all burr'ed up, which was why my cad engage was so difficult. a little file work to remove the burrs made a world of difference.
expect several hours of labor on seals, and consider axle u-joints if they are the least bit loose. i recommend Precision super strength or Spicer. don't get cheapo ones or you'll regret it.
welcome to the dodge money-pit.
the front end is like a tar baby, and that's why i drove mine for a year with leaking seals. there are several very expensive components, and replacing any of them is like taking the whole damn truck apart. you got front hubs (bearings) at $185 each. axle u-joints at $25-30 each, and the stupid little $10 seals, and a couple of $5 bushings at the CAD.
i had to replace hub bearings and brakes as one event, and then i did the seals, axle u-joints, and cad bushing/bearings as a second event. that way i only had to take all the innards apart one time. removing the passenger side seal and inner axle was actually a blessing because i found the axles splines and cad collar to be all burr'ed up, which was why my cad engage was so difficult. a little file work to remove the burrs made a world of difference.
expect several hours of labor on seals, and consider axle u-joints if they are the least bit loose. i recommend Precision super strength or Spicer. don't get cheapo ones or you'll regret it.
welcome to the dodge money-pit.
#17
08-08-2012, 09:43 PM
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#18
08-09-2012, 12:15 AM
The front end really isnt difficult to take apart....to do both seals in my driveway and only special tool was a 3/4in breaker bar took about 5-6 hourz and i had never done it before...only took 2two 1 1/2 ft pry bars and some muscle to get the carrier out...everything else was mostly easy....gettin the pass. Side to seat right was the hardest part....but its do able by yourself so take a saturday and save $300 in labor
#19
08-10-2012, 09:46 AM
