I recently replaced the universal joint on the right front axle of my 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4, only to later discover gear oil being leaked out of the axle tube (after driving it awhile). I have removed the driveshaft again and have been trying to remove the worn out seal. Is the seal removed by pulling it out of the axle tube, towards the wheel, or is it pushed into the 4X4 shifter opening area behind it? I am trying to get my hands on the factory service manual to find out, but would appreciate any insight from someone who has dealt with this before. Dealer wants $615 to swap out the seal.

 

remove it by pushing it inward, into the CAD opening. i tapped mine out with a piece of 2x2 about 3 feet long.

replace it by inserting it into the CAD opening, engaging an appropriate sized seal puller, and pulling it outward toward the the wheel.

there are several options for a seal puller.
you can buy a premade, perfect tool from quad4x4.
you can cobble together the right sized seal seater, with threaded rod and a plate at the steering knuckle.
you can cobble together welded up washers as a seater, with threaded rod.

http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-3.html

do make sure your seal seater perfectly fits the seal, so that it pulls on steel rim, and not on the rubber or the spring. caution - if it doesn't fit, you will destroy the seal, as it takes a LOT of pressure to pull it into the cavity and seat it. ANY misfit, will ruin it.

i made mine out of welded up, ground to size washers. i also ruined 1 seal before i got it right.

there's a lot of past posts on this with pictures. zman or someone might can find them.

 

Thanks for the insight and reassurance dhvaughan! I was able to download the factory service manual for $12. Knowing is half the battle. Once I was sure which way to remove the seal (also thanks, to you), I was able to knock it out fairly easily. Accessing it through the shifter opening made it easy. I built my own seal installer out of half-inch allthread, a steel plate from my shop press, and a modified cup from a slide hammer kit (from Harbor Freight). I ruined two seals, but the third one was the charm. At $10 per seal, I'm still way ahead of the $615 the dealer wanted to do the job.
A massive 'Thank You!', to dhvaughan and DodgeForum.com!

 

Ok, I have researched the topic and found the front end diy thread that is great info. Thanks to the original poster for that!

Question is:

Is there a trick to the final installation of the axle shafts once the new seals are properly seated in the differential housing?

Seems to me that as you guide the axle shaft through the shaft housing from the outboard side and through the new seal there is a possiblity of the splned shaft dragging its way through the new seal and setting you up for a leak.

Can the axle shafts be slipped through the seal enough to engage the seal land and still allow you to get the carrier in? Then give the axle shafts the final push to engage in the carrier? If this is possible then I could provide a little support and guidance for the axle shaft as it enters the seal.

Any advice or experience is greatly appreciated. I certainly don't want to do this twice! Thanks.

 

It's called being real careful. Once you get the shaft through the seal you are ok. On the passenger side, I recommend removing the CAD housing so you can line up the outer shaft with the intermediate shaft. And make sure the composite bushing is in the end of the the outer shaft where it joins the intermediate.

 

Pardon my ignorance....CAD stands for?

 

central axle disconnect

 

Bummer. You could have been a further $12 ahead by finding the FSM for free download in this forum.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...d-how-tos-143/

Good job in any case. It's PITA task for sure.

 

I wouldn't wish that job on my worst enemy. To change the front axle seals in a 98 1500 quad cab is a bitch. Had to locate a case spreader and then to get the passenger side axle seal in was tricky to say the least, Had to fashion guides and adaptors to pull the seal in true. Got both seals done first effort but it was nasty.

Inframe, without the factory seal installing tools, crawling and rolling on the concrete was just unpleasant. I think I'm getting too old for that sort of job. Topped diff up and then suctioned 3 ozs off.....would hate to see them leak after all that.

Think long and hard if you are considering this job inframe in your driveway.

 

yep. you get to disassemble the entire f***ing front end to change a couple of $5 seals. how could anyone envision or approve such a STUPID design.

i followed sheriff's tip and pulled the front diff out with a come-along attached to the tow hook. lol.