Probably a dumb question, but. Going to be changing timing chain since im gonna be changing timing cover gasket since one side is leaking. My haynes manual says to use a puller on both timing gears. In past experience with another motor the crank gear had to be "beat" on. As it slides over the end of the crank. Used a PVC pipe over the crank and a hammer to get the gear on.
I noticed that on this engine the cam gear slides over the cam. How hard will it be to get the cam gear on? Will it require to be "beat" on with something, or will it slide right on? I didn't know if the cam could slide back in the engine or not? or If it would hurt anything? Just want to be prepared, before I take it apart.

1998 ram 1500 5.2L, 168k on original chain. I think this one has the tensioner also.

 

do not "beat" on anything. Use the pullers to remove them. slide them back on(to line up) and "tap" them on a little, then use the bolts to push them on the rest of the way.

 

What kind of timing chain are you going to be using? Rockauto sells the cloyes double roller pretty cheap, and there is a discount thread in the gd section somewhere.....

 

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...ets#fragment-2

This is the one I plan on using.

 

My gears slid right on and off, no pounding or puller needed.

 

The Cloyes Double Roller for your '98 is $43.79 and there is a discount code.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=904005

 

Same here i was able to pull my gears off by hand as well as put them back on....easy job, hardest part is taking off the crank pulley

 

+1 don't beat on anything.
remove bolt, pull. maybe give it a tap with a rubber hammer. it will come off and on easily.

the harmonic balancer is the one that needs persuasion. be sure and use a harmonic balance/steering wheel puller that pulls on the inside section. do not pull on the outside section or you will destroy it.

tip - when using balancer puller, reinsert the large crank bolts several rounds so that you push on the bolt head, and don't screw up the oh-so-precious threads in the end of the crank.

 

Chilton repair manual goes so far to suggest removing the distributor shaft and gear from rear of the engine. Once removed and a appropriate tool is found, dirty old piece of metal for all I know, the appropriate tool is to be inserted into the position of the distributor shaft and gear to keep the cam shaft from moving towards the rear of the engine block against something such as a plug or wall to prevent damage from occurring when the cam sprocket is being installed. LIGHT tapping on the cam sprocket is the only method to consider as means to perform the service. Beating on it with a hammer is a straight way to send the top of your engine into the trash.

Do it gently or don't do it at all!

 

NO NO NO, do not touch the distributor, it will disturb fuel sync of the injectors.

sprockets are key'ed, so they only go back on one way.

simply turn engine to line up the dots (#6 TDC)
then remove and replace sprockets and chain without turning the engine, neither crank nor cam.

it'll look like this, note the keyways.