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cummins swap?

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  #11  
Old 11-07-2012, 11:17 PM
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if i can do the swap myself and keep the cost under 10k i would came out ahead by almost $8000 for similar year and miles, diesels around here are stupid expensive right now and the cheaper ones have been badly abused
 
  #12  
Old 11-07-2012, 11:41 PM
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i think you need to just search a bit harder. i just did a quick search and i found 31 under $10,000 less than 80km away from me. there are even a couple first gen 4x4 rams in the $3500-$5000 area with plows. i have seen many 2wd first gen diesel rams for about $2000 needing a bit of body work.
 
  #13  
Old 11-08-2012, 08:03 AM
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And I will be lucky to cash out on my swap under $5k

Motor $2500
Trans+Tcase $1000
Block Heater $100
Trans Lines $75
Batteries $150
New Fluids $100

And I havent seen bills for two altered driveshafts and new exhaust

Also got some sweet gauges and a deep trans pan for around $900
 
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Old 11-08-2012, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by crazzywolfie
i think it would be so much easier for you to just sell your truck and buy one with a Cummins already in it.

Agreed. Sell your 360 truck, buy a used Cummins truck, and enjoy.
 
  #15  
Old 11-08-2012, 10:26 PM
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95 with 414k miles on it for $4500 that one is 200 miles away, 98 with 225k miles for $12,000 180miles away, 03 unknown miles for $10,800 200miles, 03 175kmiles $13,500.

i won't have to swap out tranny, 2wd so no transfer case to deal with, also only one drive shaft to deal with, if i can come out under 7 grand i would be happy, i found a rolled 97 for $2000 everything is there just a little dinged up
 

Last edited by haus84; 11-08-2012 at 10:36 PM.
  #16  
Old 11-09-2012, 12:29 AM
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^^^ If you have the skills and time, buy it. Buying a complete donor like that means all you have to add to the equation is whatever you want. You COULD do it completely from just the donor.


I understand where you are coming from. Diesels around here are stupid expensive too. I could swap mine out for way cheaper than selling what I have and buying another, especially considering all the work I would have to do to the next truck to get it set up like mine again.
 
  #17  
Old 11-09-2012, 12:32 PM
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whats wrong with a 24v?

if injection pump is the only reason you think a 12v is better, you know the p7100 injection pump can be swapped onto a 24v right? 98 12v and 24v's have the same exact block. hell you can even put a 24v head on a 12v.

I personally like the vp44. if you take care of it with good lift pump pressure and good lubricity in the fuel, the pump will last over 200k miles easily, and the motor will last a million miles. there's a few vp44 trucks running around right now with 1.3 million miles on them and still going strong.
 
  #18  
Old 11-10-2012, 07:09 PM
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I also have a soft spot for vp's for some reason... I think a lift pump and a good fuel filter will do a lot of justice. But to p pump the vp will add another 1k onto the project. Give or take a couple hundred depending on how much time you have to collect parts needed
 
  #19  
Old 11-10-2012, 09:34 PM
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It would be a lot cheaper to lower the gears in the rear end...

But I guess I am just biased. As a diesel mechanic I will never own a diesel pick up. If you are just pulling the only real difference is fuel mileage. But at $4/gal for diesel and 3.21/gal for gas where I live, its not even that big.

Throw some 3.73s in it. Unless you have time, experience, knowledge to do something like this your truck is going to be out of commission longer than it will even be worth
 
  #20  
Old 11-10-2012, 09:50 PM
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Be warned of buying a rolled. If the motor continued to run after it was rolled you might be in for some mechanical issues. I would make sure it runs first and would let it run for as long as you can before buying it. You should at least get it to operating temp to make sure nothing was damaged.
 


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