'96 1500 3.9L - Project Log
Awesome find, tech.
I'm not discrediting you in any way, shape, or form. I just find it hard to believe that not only the company providing the product (GB), but the major resellers (APW, Parts Geek, Rock Auto) are also unaware?
I'm trying to do some research on the flow ratings.
EDIT:
Google searching has led me to this formula used to calculate injector size...
Using the MAX BSFC of .6, my number comes out to 21.875. If the fuel injectors I have are rated at 21.8, I fail to see a problem here-- especially for a daily commuter.
I'm not discrediting you in any way, shape, or form. I just find it hard to believe that not only the company providing the product (GB), but the major resellers (APW, Parts Geek, Rock Auto) are also unaware?
I'm trying to do some research on the flow ratings.
EDIT:
Google searching has led me to this formula used to calculate injector size...
HP(crank)/ # of cyl/ .80 (max duty cycle 80%)* BSFC = Injector size
BSFC for a N/A motor is: .45 - .50 (BSFC is Brake Specific Fuel Consumption)
BSFC for a F/I motor is : .55 - .60
BSFC for a N/A motor is: .45 - .50 (BSFC is Brake Specific Fuel Consumption)
BSFC for a F/I motor is : .55 - .60
Last edited by msheridan; Nov 19, 2012 at 01:46 PM.
I'm no expert, but 22lb injectors seem right for a stock 96 v6. Have you tried unscrewing the pre cat o2 sensor? And have you checked the plenum? The v6 is just as prone to having a blown gasket as the v8. And techningeer has a 5.9 as apposed to your 3.9. Not sure that would make a difference though, since I believe the fuel pumps for that year put out the same pressure.
Yes the fuel pumps for that year on the 3.9L put out the same pressure... msheridan, Don't worry about discrediting me... It just seems odd to put 21.8lb/hr injectors into it in my mind but I COULD be wrong! Zman17 -->And techningeer has a 5.9 as apposed to your 3.9 ... Could be a smaller injector, but something tells me that the injectors are at fault whether it is one faulty injector, the wrong size, or something in the injector circuit...
I know that too... One thing here is that if the injector is getting power, could it be a faulty injector? Because unless someone installed a resistor in the wire, there is no way that it couldn't be getting enough power. msheridan, check the resistance of the injector itself.
I've been busy with work, sorry for the lack of updates.
I replaced the valve stem seals yesterday because #3's plug was coated in what looked to be oil. I reattached the negative terminal and went up and down the highway. I have the distance figured out so that the CEL comes on near Autozone. I grabbed the codes, no change-- P0300, P0303, P0302 (Pending).
I'm really not sure what else to check. If it wasn't 30 degrees outside, I'd rip it apart again to double-check the timing chain alignment. Today I will set #1TDC and make sure the rotor is where it should be.
I even ran it by a (semi-shady) mechanic yesterday when I was getting a car inspected. He seems to think the timing chain is on wrong, I beg to differ.
I'll keep you guys posted.
EDIT:
Tested injectors' resistance, normal as suspected.
I replaced the valve stem seals yesterday because #3's plug was coated in what looked to be oil. I reattached the negative terminal and went up and down the highway. I have the distance figured out so that the CEL comes on near Autozone. I grabbed the codes, no change-- P0300, P0303, P0302 (Pending).
I'm really not sure what else to check. If it wasn't 30 degrees outside, I'd rip it apart again to double-check the timing chain alignment. Today I will set #1TDC and make sure the rotor is where it should be.
I even ran it by a (semi-shady) mechanic yesterday when I was getting a car inspected. He seems to think the timing chain is on wrong, I beg to differ.
I'll keep you guys posted.
EDIT:
Tested injectors' resistance, normal as suspected.
Last edited by msheridan; Nov 29, 2012 at 06:55 AM.
I'm sorry to beat an old horse, but I have some good news.
The truck sat for the last two weeks or so. Starting it for the first time four days ago, it fired within a second. It cranked long enough on the second time to summon some nervousness. An extra second seemed to slip its way into each subsequent start, though never failing ignition. The problem progressed to the point that it would not start at all this morning. I opened the hood to make sure that all connections were secure. Giving the key another turn, it slowly roared to life after an eternity of cranking. Sounding slightly rougher than usual, I called a friend and told him I may need a ride-- just in case. I made it to the gas station and pumped a few gallons in, then off to 128 south. I heard some kind of weird clank while accelerating up the ramp, followed by a blissful calm.
The engine is running too smooth to be true, with plenty of power to boot. I no longer have any problem making it up a hill on 128 in 5th gear. The idle is also extremely quiet, meaning I can hear the radio. The CEL light is still on because I need to non-foul the downstream O2 sensor (hollow cat). For those of you who haven't been following this thread, I used to have to over-rev to make up for the nonexistent low-end power. If I shifted at the speed/rpm it requested, the engine would chug until hitting mid-power.
I will be going down to Autozone later this week or next week hoping the misfire codes have disappeared. I have a tiny hint they have because the CEL is no longer blinking furiously while accelerating.
I'll be sure to update.
The truck sat for the last two weeks or so. Starting it for the first time four days ago, it fired within a second. It cranked long enough on the second time to summon some nervousness. An extra second seemed to slip its way into each subsequent start, though never failing ignition. The problem progressed to the point that it would not start at all this morning. I opened the hood to make sure that all connections were secure. Giving the key another turn, it slowly roared to life after an eternity of cranking. Sounding slightly rougher than usual, I called a friend and told him I may need a ride-- just in case. I made it to the gas station and pumped a few gallons in, then off to 128 south. I heard some kind of weird clank while accelerating up the ramp, followed by a blissful calm.
The engine is running too smooth to be true, with plenty of power to boot. I no longer have any problem making it up a hill on 128 in 5th gear. The idle is also extremely quiet, meaning I can hear the radio. The CEL light is still on because I need to non-foul the downstream O2 sensor (hollow cat). For those of you who haven't been following this thread, I used to have to over-rev to make up for the nonexistent low-end power. If I shifted at the speed/rpm it requested, the engine would chug until hitting mid-power.
I will be going down to Autozone later this week or next week hoping the misfire codes have disappeared. I have a tiny hint they have because the CEL is no longer blinking furiously while accelerating.
I'll be sure to update.
My success was short lived. The PCM is now throwing P020X codes (injector circuit) in addition to all the usual horse ****. It's a harness fault, or a defective PCM. I haven't begun to troubleshoot yet, I'm waiting for the next mild day.
I did however find the time to fix a long neglected steering fluid leak that was building to half a quart per week. The "mounting studs" which secure the reservoir to the pump body were completely missing (previous owners). I didn't know any of this until I removed the pump to replace the seals. I was able to rig a stud / bolt / washer combination which has worked flawlessly thus far.
I did however find the time to fix a long neglected steering fluid leak that was building to half a quart per week. The "mounting studs" which secure the reservoir to the pump body were completely missing (previous owners). I didn't know any of this until I removed the pump to replace the seals. I was able to rig a stud / bolt / washer combination which has worked flawlessly thus far.



